Borgeson Power Steering Upgrade

Well, I finally went ahead and purchased the Borgeson PS upgrade kit for my 67. Does anyone have any tricks,tips, or suggestions to make the installation go nice and smooth?

Thanks!
Joe

1 Like

Follow the instructions.

1 Like

I have not done this swap but have looked into it as a way to add powersteering to my dads mustang. I may even swap over to this on my cougar if I have issues with the stock system. I have a manual so this conversion wont fit without a different or modified zbar so it would be more work on my car then one with an automatic.

Its pretty straight forward from the looks of it. One thing that might get over looked and will be handy to have on hand just in case is a pitman arm puller since that will need to be swapped.

I have it on my ‘69 and it works great. With a manual trans you will not be able to use the “Z” bar. I had to convert to a hydraulic slave cylinder to push the original clutch fork. I had to fabricate a bracket to mount the slave cylinder on the TL 4 speed to push the clutch fork. I believe I put a diagram of it in another thread a couple of years ago.
I tried an internal hydraulic throw out bearing set up first and it caused a lot of problems for me. It always leaked and when I got it sealed finally it did not last more than a few miles before I had to pull the transmission yet again (9 time in total) And got rid of that internal crap.
You might have to modify your headers to make it fit as well. I did on my shorties. (lol, that just sounds so wrong…)

I would also like to go hydraulic on the clutch in the future too. I wouldn’t mind seeing what you came up with on the toploader bellhousing, it could come in handy even if I end up with a T5 since you can still use the top loader bellhousing with an adaptor. I do agree with you on the internal slave setup. I would rather have the external for above reasons. For me the borgeson swap is a snow ball effect of changing several things at once so I’m sticking with what I have until I get to the point of changing the drivetrain around. By then I should have a solid plan of what I want and in what order to put everything together.

I have installed it in my 69 as well, the box is physically bit larger than the stock box. I had to remove headers (long tube hookers) and spark plugs to make it fit. Could not reinstall the headers with the plugs still in the block.
I believe your steering shaft will need shortening (not sure), a 69 is collapsible, so that was nog issue for me.

Good point on the steering shaft length. being his is a 67 he will need to cut it shorter. The 68s have a collapsible column like your 69 so no cutting is needed.

Yes, I believe I will have to cut the column. The kit comes with a new steering shaft though, which is nice.

I had to cut about an inch off the outer column on my ‘69 tilt column to get clearance for the shaft coupler.

For anyone that reads this in the future, I just did the conversion w/ a '69 with a 351w and a toploader, and was able to use Opentracker’s modified z-bar and adjustable roller clutch pushrod kit. The roller upgrade is certainly a noticeable upgrade.

That being said, I had to BEAT my long tube headers into submission. BEAT. The advantage was that I got really good at installing and uninstalling the z-bar and headers.

I just installed the Borgeson box in a '68 with 351C, 4spd, zlink. Motor OUT.

The frame rail needed to be “adjusted” with hammers, punch, grinder to make it fit. Then the steering column needed to lose 3/4" off the bottom and to be moved over 1/4" to line up the rag joint.

I too have the open tracker zbar. It needed a slight grind to clear completely, but not bad.