I see, I know that is in place, I recently took the rod out and that disc was stuck to it I believe, it should be in the same place it was before.
“I think” just from what you’re wrote you have both a 70 dist (Combines distribution block and proportioning valve) and an adjustable for the rear brake system?
If I read that right, gut the 70 dist/prop valve and just use it as a dist block and the adjustable for the rear brakes. The reason I say that is your adjustable isn’t getting the fluid volumn/PSI to get any flow with the dist/prop block/valve inline before it.
When I changed my 66 Stang to front disc I just used the original dist block and adjustable valve for the rear brake line. Works great, stops straight.
I thought I had the 70 dist/prop block but I actually saw I have a 67 dist block, and an aftermarket adjustable proportioning valve.
Just to clarify and update info, from the parts I’ve identified I’ve got a 67 booster, with a 70 master cylinder, 67 dist block with an aftermarket adjustable proportioning valve, and then front 67 disc setup with rear 70 I believe, I’ll have to identify that for sure.
I’ll have to identify the pedal I have, but is the 70 master cylinder what could be messing me up? Is there a bore difference or something between the years?
It sounds like you may be missing booster parts like the spacer and filter. Which booster do you have, Midland or Bendix? Knowing that will help us figure out what is missing, and how to properly adjust it.
Just to be clear, this:
it has no brakes for 90% of the pedal travel, then the last 10% it gets enough to slow it down a bit from about 30mph.
Is the classic symptom of the push rod form booster to master cylinder, being too short. If you make it longer and and it makes a big difference you are on the right track. It is so easy to adjust this that you really need to eliminate this. As you know, too long and the piston can’t return far enough to let the fluid back into the reservoir.
I’ve got a 67-69 Bendix Booster.
I adjusted the rod slightly out from before, earlier when I posted the picture it was about 1", and I added 1/16 to it, haven’t had a chance to drive the car as I’m dealing with electrical and fuel issues at the same time.
I’ll see if I can test it today, I also think it could be the rod, the only thing that makes me feel like it might not be is like I mentioned before, with the plugs in the outlets of the MC, the pedal moves maybe an inch and then is rock solid, so that means my pedal must be moving fluid the whole time, just somehow not moving it enough when it’s hooked into the whole brake system, which makes me think the rod is fine and even though I’ve bled tons of fluid through, there could be an air bubble stuck somewhere.
I adjusted the rod today, drove it around and while it was a hair more responsive, maybe with a little more resistance but not much more braking. I turned it out 2 full turns from where it was, so I’m sure it’s well over 1&1/8 inches. I could feel that the pedal was harder with the plugs in it, and the pedal had less travel before I couldn’t move it, but once hooked up to the system it was not much better. I may try to adjust it further out, and I’m sure from connecting and disconnecting the MC I’ll have to rebleed the system anyway.
If you end up pulling the MC again to adjust the brake pushrod length, you may want to use one of these to take the guesswork out of it:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bae-6801279
I still think you have the wrong swing arm, the one for drum brakes was not swapped out for the disc brake one. There is a web-site that compares all of the different ones, but I can’t find it now.
I saw those tools, I figure at this point it may not be the rod, after a large adjustment I’d think it would have greater effect. I’ll still be adjusting it and messing with it when I can.
I’ll look for a way to compare the pedals. Part of me wants to say the PO swapped our everything for 67 parts, and I wanna say that he did the pedal as well but I’m unsure. Is there a part number stamped on the brake pedal, and does it change at all from 67-70? Perhaps I can figure out from that.
Quick question because I’m dealing with some brake issue myself right now, do you have a trick to getting the master cylinder in and out quickly? In my car it’s almost touching the shock tower, I don’t see how I could remove it without at least loosening the booster.
First remove the driver side shock to cowl brace. Then remove the nuts securing the master cylinder to the booster.
Once the nuts are gone you tilt it towards the engine and down. It comes right off.
Will give that a try, thanks Royce
One thing I noticed while working on my '68: it had a '69 Bendix booster and a Bendix master and I had a lot of trouble getting the master off due to lack of clearance at the shock tower. When I put it back together with a rebuilt '68 Midland booster there was plenty of room and it went on quite easily.
I ended up doing probably the incorrect thing to do, but when I got the booster I remembered the MC is hard to get out due to the shock tower. Before I installed the booster I cut the studs down a good bit with a dremel, smoothed them out and made it much easier. I figure with my history of brakes I’d be popping the master off enough that it was worth it.
Makes me wonder if the piston is returning all of the way. If you take the top off the MC you should see fluid squirting up from the holes in the bottom when the pedal has been moved no more than 3/8" Regardless of the length of the rod this is what you are trying to achieve. I am also beginning to wonder if the pedal arm is correct. I have never made that mistake so I don’t know how exactly that effects operation.
https://youtu.be/H6959c6ayKI
I copied this from another brake thread. Around 2:30 they show the different mounting locations for power brake vs. non-power brake pedals.
Mike
When I did the Granada swap I had the same problem as this person, the pedal would go to with end 1 1/2 in of floor and spongy as if air in system, I started asking some that had done this swap and was told to change to a P/B lever which fits higher up into the bracket. I bought one used from my local Mustang shop, installed it and had good solid brakes.
I’ll have to look into that video for the pedal and see if it is incorrect.
I would think that if it were the pedal, I would have bad pedal feel no matter what but if I plug both outlets its completely solid, and even if one is plugged and one is on it still feels firmer than if both are hooked up, not sure if that would still happen if I had the wrong pedal.
I believe the piston is returning all the way, I’ve not had the brakes sticking on or even gaining pressure over time, and yes I’ve seen the spurt of fluid when the cap is off, both when bench bleeding and in the car. I’ll have to check again but I remember that the front reservoir (for the rear brakes) has quite a bit more of a spurt than the rear reservoir, is that typical?
One last thing to look at from me… www.jegs.com/installationinstructions/500/555/555-631070.pdf
I am not trying to suggest to buy , just look at instructions