Thanks, I’m sure that’ll help me to identify which pedal I’ve got, once I can get up in there.
Just a thought, I believe the reason why WCCC sent me the 67 booster was because of my pedal, it was a while ago so I can’t remember exactly but they asked me about the booster and pedal alignment due to the 67-69 booster to pedal rod being a teardrop shape, and the 70 was straight. Currently the booster I have is a Bendix 67-69 with the teardrop shape, and it aligns straight, not crooked like if I had the wrong pedal/booster combination, which would lead me to believe the pedal was previously swapped to a 67 power front disc. I’ll use the resources here to make 100% sure, but I’m slowly remembering some of this stuff and this sounds correct.
Just got under the dash and checked, just like the instructions in that jegs part, my pedal pivot has been moved up to where it says to move it for the power brakes. All I saw out of place was a loose nut on 1 stud of my booster.
The Red arrow is the manual pivot point, the blue is the power one.
I forgot to mention, since I adjusted the rod further out, I can no longer bottom the pedal with the car off. Before, the pedal would go to the floor, whether it was on or off, now while off I can only get it about 3/4 of the way down before it becomes pretty hard, not sure if it’s due to the piston being bottomed out or if I’m actually running into adequate line pressure. I may adjust the rod again to see how it works out.
Sure you have the right rod? They do come in different lengths. Just checking. You do take excellent pictures that help with trouble shooting.
“Picture is worth a thousand words”.
I would think if it was adjustable there wouldn’t be a “correct” rod since you can manipulate the length, but perhaps there is another rod that would work better. I also got the booster from WCCC, and it came with the rod and all the bits already in it.
I’m going to take a video and check if my booster is moving when I press the pedal, I noticed I hadn’t put the bolt that goes in the top, I believe in the “clinch nut”, and that other nut was loose so perhaps my booster is moving when I push the pedal. I doubt it would move enough to really mess up my brakes but I may as well.
Booster and master are steady, however I also saw that I am no longer getting that spurt of fluid from the reservoirs, just a tad from the rear reservoir but nothing from the front. If I plug the outlets I get the spurts, so currently not getting that would be an indicator of air in the lines?
Getting more of a spurt from on is not a problem. The key is that it should start with 3/8” pedal movement. Hot rods mix all kinds of parts so you have to skip specs and think about function.
My pedal has a sort of clicking/engaging at the beginning, is that the 3/8" point you are referencing?
Over the weekend I’ll rebleed the brakes and I’ll test for that, if its still bad at that point I think it must be the dist block.
Just for curiosity, is one method of bleeding better for getting air out of the lines? In case I somehow have a large air pocket stuck in a line, how would I get it “unstuck”?
Rebled the brakes, a whole bottle through each bleeder, didn’t seem to change much. I noticed that even after there was no spurt of fluid from the front reservoir, and I could only get one from the front if I either pumped it up a bit or hit it harder.
After that I decided to check the drums and all the stuff inside and I noticed that the shoes were way out of adjustment. I must have adjusted them before with the emergency brake on or something because they weren’t dragging on the drums like they should, so I fixed that and now there’s a definite change. I could perhaps drive it around, make a bit of an emergency stop if I needed to. I did notice that the fronts were still fairly easy to turn with the pressure tank bleeder on at 15psi.
Has anyone else used the pressure bleeder, and is 15psi not enough to hold the brakes tight enough to stop me from turning it with my hands? It doesn’t turn easily, but it does turn.
I’ll have to check for any spurt of fluid on the MC again since I forgot to after adjusting the brake shoes, not sure if it’s dependent on there being some resistance at the wheel cylinders but I’ll check again.
I’m considering adjusting the rod again but I don’t want to have to disconnect and rebleed the system from the master again, but now from adjusting the pedal I no longer get the pedal down to the floor, not sure if I’m bottoming out the piston or if I’m running into hard enough pressure. I didn’t notice any pressure building or brakes dragging, so I don’t believe the rod is out too far, even though it is out of spec for stock.
