Cheap adjustable sway bar end links

Cougar Community Classic Cougar Speed Shop
1

This weekend I broke both endlinks in the process of replacing the swaybar bushings on my 68. While I was at the hardware store looking for some new 7" bolts, I got to thinking why not make them adjustable while I’m at it. Behold my cheapskate idea:

Basically, the two locknuts in the middle substitute for the fixed-lenght steel sleeve on the original links, except that the overall length of the link can now be lengthened or shortened as desired. My 68 has always leaned slightly to the drivers side, so by adjusting the passenger side link about 1/4 inch shorter than the driver side, the car now sits level. The total cost (not counting the bushings) was under $5.

2

Well, I guess that’s better than going on a diet…:poke:

3

Well, I guess that’s better than going on a diet…:poke:
Burn :flamer:

I wouldn’t trust threaded rod from the hardware store if that is what you used. Pretty soft material, but you can buy grade 8 threaded rod.

Might notice a difference in handling on the bumps and corners with one side preload more then the other.

4

Well these are much cheaper and easier than dieting. As far as durability, I agree that the grade 5 stuff is soft, but the stock links looked to be only 5/16 bolts and they both snapped with just a slight twist of the bottom nut. Besides, with my old man driving style, I expect these will be strong enough. I drove about 20 miles today and didn’t notice any weirdness.

5

The compression load is carried by the steel tube. The all thread is pretty strong under tension, as when being pulled, but doesn’t have the stiffness to stay straight under compression. You will need the steel sleeve to support it. What will happen with the all thread is that it will bend. This won’t happen because you are an aggressive driver, those loads are nice and progressive. It will be a pot hole that puts a bunch of energy into the spring very quickly. The good news is that you won’t get hurt, it’ll eventually just break one side.

6

If you kept the steel sleeves, cut them to length and you are good to go.

7

OK, you naysayers and nitpickers, here’s version 2 fresh out of my head:

2" threaded coupler replaces the steel sleeve. Grade 8 bolts screw in or out to shorten or lengthen the link. You’d have to hit the mother of all potholes to bend the coupler.

8

Engineering at it finest. Well done. :thumbup:
Steven

9

That will be much stronger. I didn’t realize those couplers were that long.

10

Now while I have always been a fan of Jody’s innovation/cheapskate engineering, the words “cheap” and “sway bar end links” are synonymous to me, what are they, $15 for a kit? No, cheaper than that!: http://www.ebay.com/itm/PAIR-Front-Sway-Bar-links-Fits-B1500-B3500-B150-B350-/131353668292?fits=Year%3A1968|Model%3ACougar&hash=item1e9549eac4&vxp=mtr

11

Just so their is no confusion…
Nitpickers = Brian
Naysayers = Bill
and Bob is a Debbie Downer with his $11.69 end links.
But, none of us called you fat like MO. :unamused:

12

:laughing:

13

:laughing:

I’ve always had a way with words…

14

It’s true that years of my wife’s Italian cooking and more recent discovery of New Glarus Brewery is starting to take its toll. I figure when things get to the point that I have to upgrade to a thicker sway bar, then I’ll start to worry.

15

Ah, breweries. The bane of men’s midsections for eons.

In all seriousness, though, whose Cougar DOESN’T lean left, anyway??