Oh yeah Im aware of the rabbit hole you go down during modifications, at least to do it correctly anyway. Much like electric fans, its not just tossing fans on and calling it a day. Its an alternator, cables, radiator, fan controller etc.
I just know that zbar is making it a bit harder for other things I would like to do. I want to be careful to not get stuck on one path of the other revolving around the z-bar or not. If I choose to go hydro and need to swap bellhousings I think I will just swap transmissions at that point.
You do great work and I know you consider the changes thoroughly first. I didn’t mean to imply that you don’t. Not my intention at all!
I wanted to post what I went through and my thought process. This bit me some as did my exhaust header choice early on-shiny ceramic long tubes bought and installed before I knew they would impact R&P steering system. The manifolds were cracked and the exhaust was gone so I needed to do something at that time. Hated the shiny finish after they were installed though.
Well life has thrown a lot at us recently but I have gotten some more miles on the car. I’ve run her through all gears and I’m pleased with how the clutch, AL flywheel, trans and rear gears seem to be working. While I had some concerns on driveability with the AL flywheel I have seen no issues at all-slow speed, starting on a hill, friction point location-VERY happy I went this direction. I like the final drive I chose 3.70:1 so far though I haven’t yet done a freeway trip. Four wheel Wilwood discs work well too. I’ll get her back on the lift this week to do tweaks to the steering, figure out the speedo/odo issue, then diagnose lack of turn signals. My alignment kit from Summit arrives tomorrow so I need to get my turnplates cleaned up and lubricated. I figure I’d teach myself how to do my own alignments as I’ve done almost everything else on this thing so far.
Its a good feeling being happy with your results after all the work and down time. Just that much more rewarding knowing everything is going to work together and meet your expectations like you planned.
What are you planning on using for alignments? I have the longacre setup and it works pretty good, I do want to get some turn plates to make things easier. I would say the hardest part of doing your own alignment is being able to get under the car enough to make adjustments since you doing it on the ground especially if its been lowered. Having a way to measure toe by yourself would be nice too.
I have the SPC Fastrax and was able to do toe and camber fairly easily. I could not for the life of me get caster dialed in though, I think for that you really need to have turn plates and a brake pedal depressor. It’s also not easy to adjust the strut rod nuts with the car on the ground, hard to find enough room for the wrenches.
I have been using folded contractor grade 40gal trash bags. They allow enough slip to do a caster sweep and make adjustments. I moved the strut rods too. Ideally turn plates are much easier and better to use but trash bags got it done.
I still need to install blocks instead of the cams too. I keep having those cams loosen up on mine.
So the day I typed my last response was just before a quick drive to blow off the moisture before putting it back on the lift. I got about 1/2 mile from the house and the clutch pedal went to the floor for a shift but pedal felt wonky and driveline was disengaged. I coasted to a stop in a driveway and climbed out to see leaking fluid from the now open slave cylinder and fluid on the toe of my left shoe. I surmise the master cylinder had a slight leak at the inlet from the reservoir and was taking in air eventually popping the piston out of the slave cylinder. Tear down saw now loose fittings but a wet spot on the inlet to the master cylinder from the reservoir. Malwood was great about getting me a replacement and I’m just bleeding that now. Hope it’ll be back on the road tomorrow night after I reinstall the steering column and seat then left the engine ever so slightly to clear the DS header collector.
Slave cylinder bled and reinstalled. Steering column reinstalled. Tonight I’ll get the seat back in and troubleshoot my dead turn signals. Brake lights and running lights are working fine.
Buttoned up the mechanics for the moment and took off for a drive. I did about 30 miles of surface streets at 92f with no serious issues popping up. Drive went well and ran up and down through all 5 gears on the full Woodward Dream Cruise route. I want to get about 500 break-in miles, change all the fluids (trans, engine oil, rear end) then run it harder.
I’m just shy of 500 miles since I got it back on the road. The Woodward Dream Cruise was a test of low speed driveability of the AL flywheel and it was fine. Multiple days and many miles of creeping along in 1st gear all over the friction point and only a few judders. I’d recommend one if you are on the fence. I’ve still got plenty of things to work on ahead of me but it’s great to know I can grab the keys and take off whenever I want again.
Glad your getting the bugs work out. Sucks to constantly hit roadblocks like this but feels great when it all comes together and you can drive it again without constant worry of an issue popping up
Thanks woodsnake and Diesel. It’s been a journey for sure. I’ve enjoyed the challenges though have gotten frustrated at times! Working on it recently I discovered more little things that need to be addressed as well as some bigger ones. Part of the process.
At one recent car show a gentleman walked up and complimented me on the car then asked if it was all stock. I chuckled and told him virtually nothing was stock on the car other than the shell and top frame. He got a laugh outta that one too!
The car is in the garage on the lift for the winter and I’m working through fluid changes on engine, trans and rear end plus general underbody clean up. I purchased a new to me 393” Cleveland with a bunch of performance bits with records and dyno proven performance between the holidays. Iron Aussie ported heads, custom hydraulic roller cam, Scat stroker crank and I beam rods, forged Diamond pistons, Edelbrock RPM air gap intake with Holley carb, custom baffled Canton oil pan, plus more. 444HP@5700RPM and 449 lb. ft TQ at 4300RPM with over 400 lb ft from 3000 to 5800 rpm! This was built by Barry Rabotnik of Survival Motorsports, a name you FE guys probably know well. A set of CHI aluminum heads would add another 75-100 HP from what I can determine should I choose to go that way.
My motor was a mild factory rebuild by PO and while it ran well it was pretty tame. So this winter it’s heart transplant time and next spring I’ll have a running and complete 4V Cleveland for sale.
Here was the motor as it sat at Motor City Grind in the Detroit area. It was driven in within a 1970 Mustang owned by Shaun Burgess owner of Street or Track.
Yesterday I started pulling parts off as it was completely dressed minus the starter. I’ll put the carb and fuel pump+lines on the shelf same with the GM PS pump as it is the same as the one on my car now. This winter I’ll work on a full detail and repaint to get ready to stab it in.
I’m not sure what ignition I’ll run long term but I may start with the Crane stuff on this engine now. I’ll bead blast the intake, Blue Thunder valve covers, water pump and pulleys and may powder coat the pulleys black.
