Hi all!
Been a minute since I’ve logged in here.
Esmerelda (my 67 XR7) is still my daily driver and I’ve been hoping to convert her to manual transmission for a couple years now.
I hadn’t seen a center console on WCCC, so I’ve been keeping an eye out for one on eBay.
Today, I finally found one. It was a LOT more expensive than I’d hoped… but I didn’t know when I’d get another chance at this again.
Is there a thread anywhere of dos and don’ts for converting?
Any recommendations for a 5 or 6 speed transmission?
Things to look out for when installing the clutch pedal?
That’s not out of line for a XR-7 4 speed console… pretty good, actually. If it also came with the radio suround pad, even better.
Many of us have swapped with the T-5 World Class, as it fits without modifications.
You would be best to look into a conversion kit that has the T-5 trans mount, flywheel, clutch, etc. At some point you will have to decide whether you want to go with a cable actuated clutch, or a hydraulic version.
Clutch pedal between 67 and 68 are different… the good news for you is that the reproduction is of the 67 version.
67 also has a different brake pedal mount between power and non power brakes.
Good luck and have fun.
Yes, I would agree that you got a pretty good deal. The top pad by itself would be about $500. The metal radio face plate, if the backside of the radio knob holes have not been cut, would be another $300. They are hard to find with both the upper mounting ears still intact.
Just an FYI, the base of that console is for a car without factory A/C. If you have A/C then you will need to cut off the back portion of the right side of the base where it would go under the dash.
If you took the under dash heater box out of the car then you can use the console base that you just bought. If the A/C heater box is still in its place under the dash then you would need to trim the right front side of the base you just bought. You can use the automatic base that was in the car. You will need to trim a small section of plastic out where the manual transmission shifter is. The section you need to remove will be completely hidden once you put the chrome piece back on that has the hole for the shifter in it. This area needs trimmed so that a driver can get a 4 speed into reverse.
Regarding the transmission. Has there been any videos by WCCC or threads here where someone walks through all of the “dos and don’ts”?
Just wondering if there’s a way we can avoid some problems since my cousin will be flying out for a few days to do the job and I’d like to NOT be caught without all the parts.
Keep in mind this was 10 years ago. MDL was not doing Cougar speck kits at the time. I also ordered the kit from C J Mustangs. It went in fairly well. You can see the few difficulties I had reading the thread.
As a review, I love driving my Cougar a ton with the 5 speed. Only think I wish I had done was use a TKO or TRX rather then the T-5Z.
Good luck, did mine about 10 years ago. C4 auto to a 4 speed toploader added a hurst. Had a console converted it to a manual console, the boot is for a round shifter but it will form to a rectangle. Have fun add clutch pedal and cut brake pedal add pad to it.
Your clutch release mechanism will impact the bellhousing you need which will then impact your clutch OD. All of this will impact the separator plate and starter you need as well as the driveshaft length. It’s not difficult but it is a process to go through. Mine was easier as it was already a manual transmission (3 speed). After futzing with the Zbar and reinforcing it, the change I made to R&P steering and headers moved me toward hydraulic clutch release which then moved me to an aluminum bell housing (Fox body) which then moved me to a 10.5” clutch and new separator plate. Your trans mount may or may not work-my TKO600 did not work with the OEM 3 speed trans mount. When I added the headers years before due to cracked manifolds I bought a Powermaster mini starter which was clockable (rotate motor within bellhousing mount) and had a replaceable mount which allowed for different pinion depths. i sourced a custom 3” aluminum driveshaft once everything was installed as the OEM unit would not work. I was not pleased with the MDL hydraulic master cylinder linkage system after I attempted to install and tweak it. I removed the master and switched to a Malwood integral pedal/master cylinder system and that has worked well.
Again, all solvable issues just a puzzle that needed to be worked out. My build thread here goes through the details.
You’re welcome! Glad to help with what I learned from my experience. I was my own worst enemy at times going through this conversion but I got it done.
I had a 5 speed temic installed a few years ago - 1969, 352ci. At 60 mph my rpms dropped by 800+/-. Highway gas mileage is in the mid 20’s. However, I’m at the age where shifting is bothersome. Wish I had good 4 or 5 speed auto now.
I just ot home from about a 120 mile road trip in my Cougar. I had a good time shifting gears. I hope I have many more good years driving it. I have a pick up with a automatic. But my daily driver is a Miata with a 6 speed.
