I am replacing upper and lower control arms on a 1970 cougar Xr7. I am not to sure what the name of the above particular suspension is, does anyone know?
Also, the second picture is the same suspension piece from a 67-70 mustang bushing replacement kits. I was going to use it but the steel sleeve between the bushing are different lengths. Will that matter? Or create issues with the suspension?
Thanks for any help.
Sway Bar End Links. According to WCCC they are the same part from 67-73.
And the sleeve should be the same length side to side.
From a technical point of view, you would need to go the shorter sway bar links and bushes as per factory. In fact you would use shorter sway bar links if lowering a car.
But no one ever shortens their sway bar links when they lower their car. It’s just not worth the effort.
The only reason to retain the original sway bar link length is so bushes wear evenly.
A subtle change in length is not going to affect the suspension.
If you are not obsessed with originality, I would run what you got, even the longer sway bar links.
Thank you guys, I appreciate the advise and information.
I am using front coil springs with a 1” drop from WCCC. How much shorter shoulder that sleeve be to lower the linkage to account for the 1” drop? I am also planning to put a 1” sway bar on to help stiffen up the suspension, will that affect this issue?
No need too.
You are analyzing the problem too much.
Just use what you have.
Thank you sir. I appreciate the help with this.
Does anyone have an idea of the torque specs for the upper/lower control arms, sway bar linkage, spring perches, etc?
All that and so much more stuff that you will need can be found in the 1970 Car Shop Manual (5 volumes). Readily available in both paper and digital formats. I prefer paper since I seldom have my computer under the car with me.
Did you put a shorter sleeve on there? It also look like you increased the thickness of the sway bar, is that correct? Did the thicker sway bar help with stabilization? Did you notice a difference?
Anti-sway bars are fantastic suspension tuning devices to reduce roll of the vehicle while it turns. I don’t know why you wouldn’t use them.
… the center spacer when you have a highly modified ride height
1 1/8 in front 3/4" Stambar adjustable in the rear. Shelby drop, Upper A arm correction & reinforcement to arm. Roller spring perches, Modified 70 spindles for bump steer. Xport & reinforced crossmember.
Most likely if you order end link kits the bolt will be about 1" too short. I buy longer ones at Ace hardware
You want your end links to be vertical. Addco, who makes virtually nothing but sway bars, recommends no more than a 20-degree variation from vertical. If you have too much cant on your end link then vertical motion of your lower control arm will cause the end link to pull/push the end of you sway bar forward and aft which may accelerate wear on the sway bar center bushings.
After lowering my car, the end of my sway bar needed to be tilted upward quite a bit in order to get the eye on the end of the bar directly above the mounting point on the lower arm. I solved the issue of distorting the end link bushings by grinding complementary angles in the bushings that go on the sway bar end of the link. Prothane has a variety of universal polyurethane end link bushings, and you can easily modify polyurethane by sanding it. Use a belt or disc sander, even a bandfile.
You can also make your own end links in order to get any length you want. Just get some Grade 8 3/8" threaded rod and some thick washers. If your sway bar permits you could go to 7/16". You can double nut the nuts on either side of the bushings or use locking hardware and you won’t need the sleeves. A wide variety of high quality hardware is available at McMaster& Carr (mcmaster.com).
On my '68 the bolt spacing for the sway bar center bushing brackets is close. Most universal brackets won’t fit. I don’t know if the '70 has the same issue but Addco makes ones that fit.
Midsection Brackets and Bushings 0.75in. (Close Hole Spacing) - Addco
Mr. Bill, why did you remove the sleeve all together? Is that a 3/4” sway bar upgrade from the original?
The reason to remove the sleeve was due to the modified front end stance. It has the 1" Shelby" drop, the upper A-arms were bent, and the springs were cut by 1 1/2 coils. Time tested on the track, and dialed in over a few years.
The front diameter was I believe was factory 3/4, upgrade was 15/16". I went to a 1 1/8 thus needing a rear. I ended up with"Stambar" as it was adjustable. It is on the lightest setting so maybe I could have gone smaller, but it works so well!
