The engine paint on the Black GTE looks like Ford “Light” Blue. What is the corrrect color? Ford Light blue or Ford Dark blue? Royce says Ford Corporate Dark Blue.
Rob
Are the shock tower “stands” for the front shocks supposed to be Natural or a natural look?
Rob
Yes, dark blue and yes, natural steel. I like a shade darker than natural.
Wow, that engine paint on the black GTE looks like light blue!! Let’s let the debate begin!! Same thing with Mustangs in this era!! Just got a PCV Valve transfer tube and smog tubes to the heads… They are both in Ford light blue…
Rob
Bright sunlight and cameras can cause Ford Corporate Dark Blue to look nearly white. Ford did not paint engines light blue in this period of time.
Just the light in this particular photo set as Royce says. The engine was painted correct Ford Dark Blue also referenced as Corporate. Here is a pic of the actual engine as it was going together in 2013 and you can see much darker. The engine and parts that were to be painted Blue often have different shades of this Ford dark Blue though. The reason is some of the “tin” like air cleaners, S tubes, heat shields etc were already painted assemblies prior to being shipped to Dearborn Engine Plant for installation. The long block was painted with some of the emissions in place as well so there were several batches of Blue on each and every full dressed assembly. They are all based on this Ford Dark Blue and not to be confused with expected earlier years Blues. There are no 2 rattle cans alike and same goes for batch paints at different plants in the day. A lot of restoration people are purposely painting parts with different batches today and expected in some of the Division 1 Concours classes, Premier and Thoroughbred.
Here is a pic from when I was returning from getting the car in Wisconsin. Stopped just on the West side of Denver for a break before sliding down the hill to San Diego. This is original paint and it was a darn solid car overall. The owner applied top was a bit crazy along with the side molding with drilled holes every 3 inches the entire length. The interior was a 8/10 still and the 302 was stuck. The original transmission was in the bed for those noticing along with a crusty frozen 390 that had also lived in the car at some point. The car was stored in a pole barn with a sand floor (absorbs moisture) in Minnesota for decades which saved the underside floors, torque boxes and frame rails.
Agree with Gary time to say goodbye to the piece of toast. Can’t say it didn’t serve its purpose providing the saved numbers engine in original recently unflagged GTE chassis. Someone was blessed or got lucky people can decide for themselves maybe both ha
It does not appear to be as solid as you remember.
How about some context Ray. Date of pic
I don’t know if it is a tale or truth, but I have heard that steel will burn like wood if you get it hot enough.
You can tell by the photos that Kerry (sportyworty) posted of the front clip that this car was not rusty when he received it and later sold it. It had some lower rust in the quarters but was solid other than that. This car was restored by an expert and it certainly would have had any rusted panels replaced. Certainly over the years some thinning may have occurred but again it was solid.
This is a fine example of what happens to metal in a hot fire. I am a sheet metal mechanic by trade. The coil springs on this car collapsed together and the seller had to insert 2 X 6 pieces between the upper control arms and the upper stops just to roll the car. The is no rubber in any suspension components. The carb meted and pieces of molten aluminum were on top of some of the pistons. The rubber engine mounts were gone. This car got very hot. All primer and any paint preservation was completely burned off. The “new” owner that bought it after the fire removed the engine and trans and then let it sit outside for two years in the elements. This is what happens to superheated metal and then the elements. The metal is extremely vulnerable to the elements and rust/corrosion is intensified and complete disintegration occurs very quickly.
When Kerry owned this car it was very solid in my opinion. The rust through is the result of the fire and then two years in the elements.
Of note the engine passed all inspections and the original pistons were reused. I should have it next week.
Rob
This is a picture of the car’s current condition, as of 11/2018. I did not mean to disparage the memory of the car or its prior owners. I should have said the car is not as solid as you remember it “anymore”. I’ll bet the fuel in the tank created a torch like vortex and the metal burned just as Bill suggests. Much of the car looks to be rot free.
If I were to buy this car, I would likely “back half” the car using a date code correct rear clip. It seems the soul of the car could remain intact when the area from the toe boards forward, including the dash and firewall, are saved. Correct me if I’l wrong, but this approach would not result in re-body stigma, but would rather be considered a “heavily restored” car.
Re-bodied by definition of Jim it is taking the numbers from one car to another car. There is no percentage listed if original metal at this time.
The car was solid at one time and left in the weather. Certainly this car would be one to bring back at some point. Every cat has nine lives and this one has 8 remaining.
So sorry for the fire, situation causing the fire and all of the hardship surrounding this car.
Gavin
www.CougarClub.org
You’ll get as many different answers as you do responses to that question.
Back half would be a sound approach. Dash and firewall are ok. The forward frame rails and engine panels look fixable.
I have seen East Coast and Mid West cars that have been saved a piece at a time front to back. It certainly is a huge effort to do this, but saving as much of the original is the goal. This car will always be known for a “total” restoration and that may affect its value somewhat, but if done correctly I would never tag it as a rebody if the front half is saved. IMO and heck who am I!!
Rob
Did this car ever sell, was a title ever gotten for it, and are there any other detailed photos of it in it’s current state?
I talked to the owner 2 weeks ago. It was still available. He had removed the original 31 spline rear end for use in his red car. I was/am on the fence about buying it. Shipping to my door is $1400. I’m trying to come to grips with the history of the accident and the cost to restore. I love these cars and I don’t want to see it scraped (The reason for my interest). It seems the car may always have a stigma surrounding it, which is a big deal if you’re concerned with money. I nobody else steps up, I may return to the table an try to swing a deal.
Help yourself. I have the guy’s direct if you want it. Call me 248 867-3522
Where is the car, does now have a salvage title.
Randy,
I believe the car is in the far west someplace. Would be a long haul to get it to NY 
My G has light blue on the block, dark blue air cleaner, with chrome top. Was curious if it’s even correct. Hope someone could chime in and let me know. I’ve always thought it should be light blue.
Ford used a color on all of it’s engine components from 1966 - 1978 called “Ford Corporate Dark Blue”. If exposed to sunlight, oil, antifreeze, gasoline or time it gets lighter. More than one, it can almost turn white. Originally many parts came from many places already painted. All were originally Ford Corporate Dark Blue. DE 1606 from Plasticote is a close match.