Hey all!
I’m concerned that the Hooker Competition headers (HKR6913) that were installed in my ‘70 Standard when I bought it, hang a little low. I’ve already bottomed out a few times, as there’s only about 3” clearance from the bottom of the header to the pavement. I’m not sure if a mid-length header is the solution or what, but I’m willing to compromise a horse or two for some improved ground clearance, if necessary.
What are some options for improving my exhaust issues on my Cleveland?
Stan’s Headers makes great products. Usually don’t hang as low, may not produce ans much H/P as the Hookers, but they look great and fit nicely.
http://www.stans-headers.com/
Edit, I was just checking out there applications, None for yours. But I have another recommendation, Ford Power train applications, (FPA)
http://www.fordpowertrain.com/FPAindex/Mustang1.htm
Aren’t they just the prettiest thing ever? (in the way of headers)
+1 on FPA headers, spendy but good USA built quality.
I had a set of Doug’s long tube headers on my 1969 with swapped Cleveland. They were low but nowhere near that low. The place that did the installation of the headers and my exhaust were able to get the exhaust tucked up in to the tunnel alongside the driveshaft above the convertible reinforcing plate. They interfered with my R&P swap and were removed for a set of Sanderson shorty headers.
BTW-The Doug’s are for sale if you are interested.
Header makers that make products for Cleveland’s were pretty thin. Doug’s/Patriot, Sanderson, Hooker, and FPA were all that I found in prior searches. I wanted long-tube but wanted the R&P more.
FPA headers. Just put a set on a 1971 Mustang with a Cleveland. Tell him Rob sent you. I have installed at least 15 of his headers on customer cars. Best ground clearance for long tubes in the business! And no, I do not get a kick back!! Just love to send people to quality shops that bleed Ford blue!
Rob
Just to clarify, Ford Powertrain Applications is a specialized Ford Header business, ( www.Fordpowertrain.com ) where Stan’s Headers is a generic header shop. FPA used to Have Stan’s headers assemble for them, but that is no longer the case. I have known Stan Johnson of FPA for years and his header work is the best of the best. You will not be disappointed.
If you desire pics of the ground clearance of his headers say so and I will post pics.
Rob
So the Stan I spoke with at FPA is Stan Johnson. He is a different Stan than Stan’s Headers? I’d love to see some photos, especially showing the pavement clearance. Thanks!
If you talked to FPA it was Stan Johnson not Stan’s Headers. They are not the same company. I will rustle up some pics soon. They are so tight up it is amazing!
Rob
Left a voicemail for Stan, but meanwhile also reached out to WCCC. I’m not sure who I spoke with (not Don), and he said lots of dudes have issues with low-hangin Hookers. 
His recommendation was Hedman shorties. Also, can somebody please “pipe in” on coatings? Ceramic seems popular and supposed to cut down on heat, but they’re way more spendy than painted. How big a deal is it, and what are the ins and outs of coating choices?
The ceramic coatings are used to extend the life of the steel headers and reduce under hood heat to a varying degree. They are much more durable and longer lasting than paints. There are a number of colors-black, grey, white (Swain), and aluminum which is typically polished. As you note they are expensive when purchased on the headers new but can be applied by local coating companies which may be cheaper but require you to do the leg work. As exhaust systems will rust due to moisture and the temperature swings they experience constantly they are a good choice to extend the life of the headers.
I had good luck with the old Blackjack and then Hedman headers for my 351C. Still have the old tubes…They did not hang down. Worked great with 2.5" exhaust.
But as far as what I would do today? My current headers (351W) are from FPA. I did talk to Stan and he was great to work with. I would highly recommend their headers.
But since this thread brought up the Stan (FPA) vs Stan (Stan’s headers) I went googling and found this to my surprise as I thought they were the same:
“…Some say Stan’s makes them for FPA. To add to the confusion FPA is ran by Stan Johnson & Stan’s is ran by Stan Fuller. I forgot to ask them both if one makes headers for the other one. Their specs are identical and prices are close. They both have been very pleasant to talk with and very helpful. Stan at Stan’s really likes to talk…”
They are two different companies now. At one time they worked together. FPA is solely Ford headers. Stan’s Headers builds headers for multiple makes and models.
Rob
Spoke with Stan Johnson at FPA, yesterday afternoon. Seemed friendly, knowledgeable straightforward. For my application, its $850 for the pair - uncoated. $275 more for the ceramic both inside and out. That price includes all of the accessories for installation. He said he’s about 3-4 weeks out on getting orders shipped. I can’t imagine I could get the inside/outside ceramic coated for much less than $275…especially a one-off job.
Hey 207, here is my FPA headers on my 351C 4V 70 eliminator. They are about flush with front subframe rails and the trans pan, they are hooked up to 2.5 inch stainless steel magna flow exhaust system.
Go ceramic for sure, you WILL regret painted headers! the ceramic is worth every single penny! You can probably get them done for a little cheaper locally as there are alot of places in phx that do ceramic coats but its not worth the savings for the legwork in my opinion.
If you go FPA keep us posted on your results. Ive been dreading headers with a manual and always hear mixed results with all the normal manufactures. FPA always keeps coming around as the best fit possible and everyone always speaks highly of them.
Here is another shot of FPA headers on my 67 Mustang. These are one off custom headers for the my Mustang with the Ford Performance 460 cubic inch stroker small block with raised port heads. Stan Johnson of FPA can make these also. Check out that ground clearance and the 3 inch ball socket flange. Now, my car has a hydraulic clutch and Ron Morris adjustable motor mounts. Always check the notes on the FPA site for applications on your car. It will save you and FPA some heart ache. These headers also clear my Borgeson Power Steering conversion.
Rob
I’m not questioning whether to do ceramic anymore…just whether to have it done factory or aftermarket. I don’t mind running them around, I just question if a local vendor can do as good a job of them - inside and out. Plus, working with two vendors can make responsibility for defects harder to deal with. And I’m not convinced it’d be cheaper enough, anyway.
Man, that’s sweet. I’m getting pretty impressed with these FPAs. They are certainly spendy, but in three months, will it really have made that much difference in the big picture? Worst case scenario, I work half a shift of OT. See how easy that was. 
IMO I would let them do it unless you have a shop in mind locally. The price difference wouldnt be worth the price difference and like you said if the odd event something was wrong it’s all one place. My experience with local powder coat/ceramic places are hot and miss.
Gotta stay on them about your job and bug them enough they don’t forget about ya.
25 years ago I put on Blackjack. 10 years ago I put the cast manifolds back on. If I wanted headers today it would be FPA.
