Okay, so, took a few pics that show the interior and the engine bay. There’s also a video with no image but the sound of the exhaust after a cold start (it’s like 55 degrees here today).
Video : http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v224/ … 6f6403.mp4
That tweed interior was top shelf in all customs and rods in the 80s and early 90s. It’s been surpassed by leather since then.
The rest of the car looks really solid and something you can continue to enjoy as you learn and tinker on it.
There is a full vacuum/headlight system test sequence in the shop manual. I believe you had said that was on it’s way. My entire vacuum system for the headlights went sayonara, so, can’t really tell you what is normal. Electric doors, it’s all the rage! LOL.
Totally want to go the electric headlight route. And yes, got the shop manual already, a couple-few days ago. It was really helpful in gaining a better understanding of the PS system, though I could not for the life of me find anything about the rag joint or gearbox. Maybe I just need to keep reading it again and again.
Read the manual for the Edelbrock 1406 today, that made about 10% sense to me. I’m sure after a few more reads I’ll get it.
You wouldn’t believe the number of times I had to read and look at all the diagrams for putting all the glass back in…I STILL have nightmares. That would go under the “trial and error” method mentioned before. So much of it is hard to explain over a PC, that I kept a lot of questions to myself, and just kept plugging away at them until I figured it out(window/regulators are just one example).
Keep on keepin’ on, is the phrase o the day!
Just be careful of the fan in the air cleaner
So speaking of dangerous fans… I got to thinking, the reason that sticker is there is because there’s no fan shroud. I took a pic yesterday but didnt post it cause it’s pretty crappy. does this look like the fan shroud was cut, or removed altogether? Also, is there any way to tell from this pic if it’s a 20" or 24" radiator? I kinda want to order the fan shroud tonight (since I want to order the PS hoses) but won’t have a chance to go measure. I guess I can wait until tomorrow if I gotta, but if there’s a way to tell from this pic I’d like to get the order in tonight. '68 with a 302, didn’t have AC originally.
Looks like your shroud is just missing altogether…tell you what, my “stock” shroud isn’t going back on…it’s for a 24"…measure yours, and if it’s for a 24, I’ll send it to you, gratis. Save some coin for you…unless you just WANT a new one…
Fair warning/caveat…it is QUITE filthy, but a good cleaning should have you up n running with it…let me know.
What’s the measurement point? Radiator diagonal, radiator width, fan blade diameter?
I’ll go measure tomorrow. Rain tomorrow and Thurs. No rain fri. Rain on sat and sun. This forecast looks like a bunch of BS to me. >:-(
AFAIK, radiator width…
Weather…you should try LIVING with a WEATHERBABE!!! After almost 16 years, she’s STILL never right! (And so long as I keep telling myself that, that is all that matters). Or, you could move to OK, where if you don’t like the weather, wait 5 minutes, it WILL change…
Ha! That exact same weather statement (wait a few minutes and it’ll change) is used for Chicago. Right now it’s windy as hell, raining, and feels like 40*. Lows are gonna get into the 30’s in the next couple days. Winter is a real $&@!
Okay! So!
Didn’t get to check the brakes because I only had a short time and it’s pouring rain and I didn’t wanna start her up just to sit and idle in the garage for a while.
Checked the headlight vac check valve. Dead as a doornail.
Measured the radiator, 20", so now I know what size shroud to get for it (currently has none). Does the shroud actually increase fan efficiency, or is it just to keep fingers from being lopped off? I might wanna push this to the back burner unless there’s a compelling reason to do it sooner rather than later.
Ordered the NOAH cover from Cal Car Covers last night. Got tired of waiting for more input (and thanks very much for yours Local Hero!) and figured overkill is better than underkill anyway, only gonna buy a cover once, all that jazz. Ordered the 2lb bag of dessicant while I was at it. And their cheapest duster brush.
Snapped a couple pics while I was there
Look at that purty master cylinder in the background.
As always, comments and suggestions are very welcome.
Oh and T thanks for the offer of the rad fan shroud but unless you got a shrink ray it ain’t gonna work. :-/
Okay I took a whole ton of pics while I was making sure my crankcase ventilation is in order- it is, as far as I can tell, which is shown in the pics. Pcv hose going to back of carb riser and oil filler cap is ventilated on its own, and I’ve got the baffles in the valve covers too.
So anyway, lots of pics, please have a look and let me know if anything looks good or bad. Tried to capture most everything I could think of. Unfortunately the numbers on the rear end aren’t very legible- would they tell me anything other than when it was made anyway?
Ok, pics!
The last two are trying to capture what I’m guessing is bondo, there are hairline cracks in the paint with white showing from underneath, and I know my dad had mentioned finding some bondo in the passenger quarter/door area when he checked the car with a fridge magnet before I bought it.
Ok! Thoughts? Anything look good or bad? The signs of leaking on the inside of the rear wheels jumped out at me. Bad news? Also the air shocks, are they a good or bad variety?
Ok, thanks!!!
Looks pretty good there. Floors look fairly solid, at least from what I could see. I’m glad I have a manual trans, and ditched all my vac. requiring components, though! If I had to figger out all those lines, check valves, etc, I’d pull my hair out.
I think we have the same Edelbrock, looks identical to mine. (That doesn’t mean I know anything about it! Remember, I’m still on a learners permit, too!)
“Leak” on the insides of the tires could just be left-over spillage from bleeding of the brakes??? Did the PO do that before you took possession? Or, could be worse…leaking line, wheel cylinder…
But yeah, looks like a good solid start!
looks like a performer carb - if you go to their website you can get the maunal on it.
I have the same thing just for the 351w
heres the manual for the performer series
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new … manual.pdf
Looks to me like both rear wheel cylinders are blown. Jack it up and pull both rear wheels and slide the brake drums off and look for wetness around the brake hardware.
Other than that the underneath looks REALLY solid like Mo said. You certainly could have done a LOT worse.
I’m jealous of your frame rails. My subframe connectors needed a lot persuading.
Thanks guys!
Carb is a 1406. I already have the manual and have read through the whole thing one time, only need to read it about 30 times more before I totally get it. But maybe another two reads and I’ll be comfortable adjusting the mixture and idle, which I’m pretty sure I’ll want to do after I replace the headlight vac check valve and repair or replace the vac leak in the brake boost. Fixing those problems will change the vacuum which will change the performance of the engine all around, right?
Busted rear brakes?!? Boooooo! That’s not what I wanted to hear Mark!!! Heh. Well I can’t see why the rear brakes wouldn’t be messed up, just about every other system I’ve checked so far isn’t as it should be. Heh. Heh. Ugh.
I’ll pull the wheels and rotors and look for wetness. Is there anything I need to know about pulling the rotors that isn’t covered in the shop manual? Any trick to it? I’m a bit familiar with the calipers on front after replacing the bushings, but I’ve never even seen drum brakes other than in a drawing, so… Any tricks I need to know or is it straightforward and just like it’s described in the shop manual?
And yeah, there’s no rust anywhere really, except on spot under the hood that’s starting to bubble in an area about the size of a coin. I’m gonna borrow some of that rust killer stuff from my dad this weekend when I go to his place to wash and wax the hell out of er before the winter nap.
Is there an easy way to know what’s in the rear end? Gotta open it up and pull out the guts, right? I’m so curious to know the gearing and all.
And here’s a super noob question… Can I tell the specifics of the trans by taking a picture of the outside of it? I know the original was a C4 but I don’t know if that’s what’s there now. If they redid the rear end, who knows.
Do I need headers or what?
Well with the PS and PB and vac work I know needs done, and the possibility of needing to redo the rear brakes, sure I’m not gonna get into performance stuff anytime soon. Springtime maybe. Summer. Definitely not before I get my tax refund.
Okay thanks again guys, your input is more helpful than I can say. Cheers!!!
Scott
Should be able to figure the “factory” rear from your door data tag…tried that in one of the decoders?
No metal tag on the center chunk of the rear end, is there? Would be put on one of the studs, then the nut would go on…that would tell you what it is, as well.
Other than that, you’re at everyone elses mercy on that…only place(s) I know of. Mine was still all original, and had the buck tag still on the center chunk.
The drums may be “rusted” on, might take some persuasion to coerce them loose. Good thing is, the pieces are out there to repair/rebuild them.