Thanks, DD! Best part about it, it’s not a “true” candy! HOK’s “Kandy Basecoats” only mimic a candy finish, while being “much easier to shoot”. Geez, I sound like a sales rep for them. :shrug:, maybe I should be! Tackled 1)metallic silver, 2) “Candy” red, 3)first time painter, 4)In my garage, 5)in JULY. Took it by my paint supplier a few weeks back, and she was pretty pleased. Says, “I remember you picking up your stuff, and I though, ‘man, that guy is running uphill, FAST!’…but you did good!”
So, that was nice to hear. Don’t get me wrong, it’s “flawed”, much as I am, but that just makes it more fun to DRIVE! Didn’t spend the 10k bids I was getting, and, it looks pretty good!
Driving to work tomorrow to run it by a shop for “striping”…been wanting a seperator stripe between the red and grey, so we’ll see what he says! Anyone up for color suggestions?? Black? Brighter silver? “Homage to origins” with polar white(or close to it…)??
Blew the home-brewed clutch master, geometry was never my best subject(didn’t have the correct linkage angles). So, did what I should have done from the start, and got the modern driveline LF series linkage. Holy guacamole…feels like a new car clutch! :y:
Also put in a Flaming River steering u-joint in place of the rag-joint.
AND, to get it all back on the road, I had to get a new carb. For some reason, the Eddy that was on it quit. Like, wouldn’t even fire when pouring gas directly in the carb. :shrug:, bolted on one of these, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-0-80457s , fired on the first key turn. What gives, Eddy experts?
Oh, and while I was at it, also did the pedal hanger roller-bearing conversion. Clutch pedal is fantastic now, throttle response is snappy, and it seems to have woke the hidden animal within.
Sorry to hear of this T3, but I know the Heap will ride again. Be sure to blog about every little detail as you go through this…because like the Kardashians…the world needs that.
That’d be nice…as soon as the budget master gets drunk, I’ll try and sneak a Coyote past her…
I DID look at them a little while ago, and it would be a fun mill to throw in there. Even found one in OKC for about half of retail…but, it’s got all those electronics I’d rather not mess with. I’d probably also have to change my transmission…which I’d JUST put in a T5. So, probably not going the Coyote route. Dangit.
On the original engine, the one that broke, it’s one you got from your BIL or some such? Hate to say it but that looks to me like assembly error. Like the one nut did not get torqued at all, perhaps just snugged at assembly and then missed when the torquing was done. It’s a damn shame regardless. The carnage does not really look that bad from what you have shown thus far. If it were me, I would investigate further/all the way and fix what you have if it is fixable (even then, 302 engine parts/blocks are cheap). This by far is the cheapest way out IMO.