Today i took my 69 cougar out for a drive less than 2 miles from my house just to the bank and the store that were in the same parking lot. I just replaced the original 4 barrel carburetor that was giving me problems after already having it reassembled. I decided to got with a new edelbrock avs2 part #1905 wich is 650cfm as opposed to the original 300 cfm . All was going well at first when I drove it about 50 miles to my home from where me and my grandpa got it set up and replaced with new hoses and an adapter base plate. At first we had to take off the original air cleaner because it was getting caught on the choke and throttle, i drove home without the stock air cleaner just naked with carb. Now i replaced the aircleaner with one that clears everything I have a different problem.
When i turned off my car at the store and tried to turn it back on it wouldn’t start. It was trying mashing the gas and turning the key and thought i had flooded the motor. I then looked up that i had to hold the gas down and then turn the key … so I did that and slowly released the gas once it turned on. THE PROBLEM is that when the car was idle it was still in acceleration mode at crazy rpm. When i turned the key again the car was in full acceleration crazy mode. I was scared the engine was going to blow up. I turned it on again and thought maybe it was just flooded and needed to use the excess gas up … it proceeded to sound really loud like an airplane taking off and when i left it on it back fired to realy lout shots and a man(bystander) said he witnessed flames shoot out the carburetor. The car is stuck on acceleration and i took off the new aircleaner so it is not that. I also thought maybe the pedal is stuck but i trouble shooted the pedal and it doesn’t appear to be the pedal sticking at all. The bystander told me the people who put it on failed to calibrate it well to the engine. Keep in mind it is the stock 351 without any other adjustments but new fuel pump and linkage hoses for the new carburetor. I turn on the car and the engine is accelerating crazy at high rpms sounding like an airplane … what should i do??? should i just by a refurbished original carburetor and go back to stock ? The new carb is less than 100 miles old . I found this article with a guy who had this EXACT same problem i think on his 351 with the same carb … please check out what he says and other people replied to him and tell me if its true for me orplease please give me suggestions. … heres a link to the other guys problem same as mines i think Bullnose Forum
You will be much better off with the stock carb. You are having the same issues: you are trying to adapt a carb that is quite different from stock and it requires a good bit of understanding exactly how things work. When you go with stock you have the factory manual to tell you what to do and engineers that have figured all of this stuff out for you.
Wrong.Edelbrock makes an excellent carb, especially for street use.When installed properly they’ll give great results.
The problem with Edelbrock and a lot of other aftermarket suppliers is you wonder if they ever installed their products on a car that will have to function in the real world.
I just briefly looked at the pics and message .Some further fabrication on the linkage is needed. I’ve always had to make my own when using aftermarket carbs.
And better w/stock carb?What a joke.What is the rating for a factory 351W4V?450 cfm? No wonder a stock 345W4V ran like a turd compared to other cars of the day if they too are stock.
Lou read his post carefully. He has no chance of fabricating anything. He doesn’t have any basic knowledge of how any of this works. He had an adapter plate so he can stick a 4 barrel on a 2V manifold.
the car has a 4v manifold , edelbrock carburetors need an adapter plate different than stock always , i doubt my grandpa a mechanic of 70+ years would have me do something stupid like that … yes he is much older so he didn’t replace this for me we just went to a dude at a fuel injection place in Compton… in hindsight of should have known they where just going to plug and chuck it in right out the box not adjusting idle flow or fabricating stuff like you guys said… it was a mistake on my part
I don’t care to use Edelbrock carburetors due to the fabrication required to make them fit. I also am not good at tuning them. But I have driven cars with them on them and they rum well. You could have a minor problem or a major one. If you could post closer pictures of the side of the carb with the linkage on it that may show something. Also make sure no hoses are causing a bind to any linkage on both sides of the carb. Runaway excoriation(engine Reving) can be bad, it can be caused by linkage not being set, missing return spring, stuck open secondary’s and a few other thing. I am leaning to it being one of the first 2 items I just mentioned.
And you might want to call the shop up and ask them if they have any ideas as to what to look for. I realize you are not close enough to take it back to them. But they may have some good input.
I’m going to agree with Neal on his troubleshooting steps, something changed/broke/stuck. Take off the air cleaner, disconnect the throttle cable/linkage and double check your set up / installation instructions. Also double check your vacuum lines are plumbed correctly.
Your going to get many opinions regarding stock/holley/edelbrock and none of them are wrong and none of them are right, to me its a personal preference.
One other thing, not sure if it relates to your application with the adapter plate. If its to convert a spread bore to square or vise versa I would get the correct carb for your application or change the manifold. I’m not a fan of the conversion plate.
“Not sure if it relates to your application with the adapter plate. If its to convert a spread bore to square or vise versa I would get the correct carb for your application or change the manifold. I’m not a fan of the conversion plate”.
My first thought reading this. I would check and see if the throttle plate is hitting on the conversion plate when it opens and is hanging up. I would remove the carb and conversion plate and bolt them together on the bench and make sure the throttle can go full travel open without hitting or hanging up on the conversion plate. Might just need some Dremel tool work to make some clearance or a totally different setup.
The Elephant in the room is that our friend DWE$T69Rcougar is in over his head on this one.
DWE$T69Rcougar, you need to do a little more research and learning about how all the systems (Carb/intake/throttle linkage/transmission etc.) interact particularly in stock form before adding to and modifying the existing systems.
This would include learning what each component’s proper names are so that you can communicate the problems more accurately.
I don’t mean to sound like I’m picking on you but when I read something like, “The original carb is this one … we had to tie a wire to keep the door open to not have it shoot the gas out raw…”, the simple fact is appears you might be talking about the choke or accelerator pump and that you would wire tie a carb function as a fix is troubling.
The mere fact that we cannot positively know what you are describing makes assisting you that much more difficult.
Speaking for myself and I’m sure there are others here, I’m totally on your side and ready to assist as much as possible, so please take this as the constructive helpful criticism I intend.
Thats ok tho. Everyone has been there before and he already has lots of good advise here just based off the basic concern and info he has posted. Sometimes the best way to learn is to get your butt kicked until you figure it out. Also this thread could relate to alot of other guys that potentially end up with an issue like this but is on his same level.
The advise to check the conversion plate is a solid one and it might just be as simple as that.
My main concern is that he’s got a dangerous situation there and getting help/advice by remote control via possibly inaccurate language could lead to
a problem at some point.
I’m all in his corner.
(I concur with the interference possibility, but I’d feel much better if he understood what was going on with more basics as a foundation.)
Thanks everyone for your help and input. It is true i know nothing about cars. I don’t have friends I can call on for guidance except my grandpa. I joined this community in hopes we all could fix her up together and because nobody knows how to work best on a cougar than actual cougar owners. Im in Southern California if anyone has any friends they would recommend me down here lmk. Not alot of people have cougars around LA, you typically see them alot in northern california in the bay .
Anyways, Heres a better picture of the setup . I think it may have been caught on that wire, but I’m not going to touch it until i can get someone who knows how to tune carburetors and do what ive seen on Youtube where they take that little vacuum plug out the carb to make sure it calms down and doesn’t backfire
If you go to the CCOA website, www.cougarclub.org, you will find a listing of all the local/regional Cougar clubs. Find the club closest to you and contact them. I think that you will find quite a few Cougar owners in your area.
I have never seen a factory cable bracket work on an Edelbrock carb before. I may need to look in to this model. It does not look like the Carter AFB based units they have. More like a Carter WCFB.
You will note the red circle, the ball stud bolted to the carb linkage are looks loose. That would not be the reason the engine is racing, but if it falls off you will nave no throttle control, it will only idle. The Yellow arrow is pointing at a Black wire that should be moved oyt to next ro the rest of the wire harness, It may be part of your problem.
You should look up the Socal Cougar club. They are in the L.A. area. Look for them on Facebook.( https://www.facebook.com/socalcougarclub/ ) It looks like the link on the Cougar Club of America site is no longer correct.
“Adapters” are almost always a compromise of some type unless carefully engineered for a specific purpose.
I don’t know enough about these carbs to give advice but it did appear part of the problem could be the attempt to use the stock linkages with the “new” carb.
And yes, those wires need to be routed/neatened to ensure they don’t foul the linkage.
Tie wraps, wire loom or even some of those cable clips that can go under the valve cover bolt would serve to keep them away.
… what should i do??? should i just by a refurbished original carburetor and go back to stock ? The new carb is less than 100 miles old . I found this article with a guy who had this EXACT same problem i think on his 351 with the same carb … please check out what he says and other people replied to him and tell me if its true for me orplease please give me suggestions. … heres a link to the other guys problem same as mines i think Bullnose Forum
