Looking good. What’s first on your list?
Full fluid replacement, Headlight doors and interior lights.
Also the ignition tumbler is just spinning… still starts though.
Another glance as the engine compartment tells me the reason that the headlight doors don’t work is because it’s probably not getting any vacuum.
There are two lines plugged off. I’m thinking that the new carb might not have a port.
Not really going to get anything done on it for a bit. Moving into a new house next week.
Still, it brings a smile whenever I pull into the driveway.
Good news on the motor, must have been a lifter late to party on start up!
Sounds like a pretty good deal. Price seems more then fair for why it is
Been moving all week into the new house so no updates.
The ignition key bezel just spins which makes it hard to start.
Is there a lock nut on the back side? I think so but no time to check… or too bushed to care right now.
Ignition bezel secured
Oil Changed - It was like water.
Fluids topped off.
Took her down to the gas station for 5 gallons of fuel to cut down the bad.
Found out that the gas gauge isn’t working
Still getting a tap but it’s not deep. Needs valve adjustment?
Steering is loose but controllable.
Bogs down getting going but seems fine. Took it up to 50 MPH on the trip to the gas station.
Got the Cat registered today, $80 for the registration and $62 for the tags plus $100 for the insurance for the year.
Looks like I need a front end rebuild kit and new rear leaf springs.
Thinking of doing a top end kit to convert to 4v. I will need to replace lifters anyways so…
UPDATE: Ordered front suspension parts which should get in next week.
Still getting a rough idle. Further inspection pointed out new front brake calipers and fuel pump along with the new spark plug wires.
Had a thought that it could be because of wrong firing order but that checked out.
The idea at this point is to get it safe with the suspension and hope that I don’t have to tear into the engine.
The fuel bowl vent valve isn’t the same as on a 2150 so I don’t know the make.
There is an arm that comes up and covers the vent hole but it is bent away from the hole and it allows fuel to spit out.
Carburetor wasn’t tightened down so there is a vacuum leak which caused a fuel leak. Will replace gasket.
There is an occasional tick in the area of the #1 cylinder. It sounds like maybe a valve spring broke and is getting tossed around.
Going to pull both valve covers and verify.
I had poured 5 gallons of fuel into the tank thinking it would help with the old fuel but it just doesn’t like it very much.
Going to drain the tank and start fresh.
Well, Popped off the passenger side valve cover and this is what greeted me:
Obviously, I have some pondering ahead of me.
Do I replace with stock parts or do I put that cost towards replacing the top end?
did that happen after i big rev, or did it just…fall off.?
I think that may indicate some thing potentially much worse lingering with in .?
coil bind, stuck valve, push rod not seated in the lifter, are the valve tips worn away ?
are those retainers correct for those springs and lifters ?
So many questions, looks like surgery is eminent ?
I don’t think she’s ever been torn apart. At least not any time recently.
The PO bought it off a neighbor who had it sitting in his driveway because the teen didn’t like the car.
The PO didn’t properly prep for a first start after many months of sitting.
I believe that the bottom end is pretty solid and am leaning towards a new top end. Either a kit or pieced together.
Most likely a stuck valve broke that rocker.
The new gas will dissolve all the shellac residue from the old gas that coats everything in the fuel system. Once that shellac coats the intake valvestem, it will cause the valve to stick and start breaking things, as you’ve found out. You need to thoroughly flush or replace the entire fuel system before you try to run the engine again. So, fuel tank, fuel lines, fuel pump, and carb need to be gone through. And any rubber fuel lines need to be replaced with ethanol-resistant hose.
Desert Dave is speaking words of wisdom
Thanks Bill, but it’s so unfortunate when it happens to folks that just don’t know. Back in the day you could do just what Cougars_R_Grr8 did and be fine. With new gas formulations and addition of ethanol, everything changes. And don’t forget the newer formulations of engine oil that have severely decreased the zinc content to lessen the adverse effects on catalytic converters and sensors. Anyone running a flat-tappet cam needs to either use a zinc additive, or use an engine oil that has elevated zinc levels included for these old engines, or risk flattening the cam lobes requiring replacement.
It’s kind of a costly lesson for Cougars_R_Grr8 who now has to have some machine work done on the heads, before getting back to everything else on the car that needs attention.
Its a bit hard to see, but is there a strange wear pattern on top of the retainers, and one rocker is off the valve tip all together ?.?
Has the rails on the rockers worn away letting the rockers to float around a bit ?
Most of them are way too loose. I don’t think it makes much sense to rebuild the 2v heads.
For the record, I didn’t do it. I replaced the entire fuel system up to the carb on my first Cougar.
The PO is the one who started it without proper preparation and I think the damage was already done.
(listen to the first video)
I should have at least emptied the tank but I didn’t know it was so full.
I found out the fuel gauge wasn’t working after I put the gas in.
The Common Sense part of me is saying to pull the engine and rebuild the bottom end before conversion to 4v.
It doesn’t make much sense to put a couple thousand into a top end kit when the engine probably needs a complete rebuild.
SO, I am now looking for suggestions for a fully dressed crate engine.