Interesting point. I was wondering about using an oil with higher zinc content or an additive, but read that since my car has a roller cam, is zinc not as critical (as on a flat tappet) or something to be avoided altogether?
No where near as critical. Not the metal to metal contact as hyd and solid cams do. This is part of how they phased zinc out.
@Engine207 The zinc in engine oil is basically the last line of defense against metal to metal contact in an engine. Since cams are curvy and lifters are flat, there is only a very small load bearing area for the force of the valve spring to push on, and as a result the PSI there is some of the highest in the engine. The Zinc-Phosphorus molecules (ZDDP) chemically break down into a film when exposed to the high temperatures that accompany the high pressure areas, and provide localized high-pressure surface protection. This breakdown is one of the many reasons why changing your engine oil at the specified intervals is important; eventually, you run out of ZDDP to breakdown and metal starts touching metal.
Since you have a roller cam, there is much less stress put on the oil film because you are rolling across it instead of trying to slide. As a result, your oil doesn’t require the same level of high pressure wear additives because the situations where they would be activated are almost non-existent. So while running an oil with more ZDDP in it wouldn’t at all hurt your roller cam engine, it won’t help you with anything either.
Ken
I’ve seen people running diesel oil in older cars.
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Even though they’re called flat face lifter. They aren’t flat. The surface is blanched ground convex to promote rotation.
Looks like a fun project, Best of luck with it !
No sense keeping it a secret anymore, I’m replacing the 302 with a 351W and 4 speed.
I’ll be converting to a roller top end and expect 450/450 when all said and done.
I’m hoping the rear will hold up and, if not, at least long enough to save up for a 9" swap.
When I am done it will be faster than the Camaro.
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@BossElim69: Correct, I should have added an almost in front of the flat. The rotation is key to why they don’t wear out.
@Cougars_R_Grr8 Awesome! Keep us updated with plenty of pics!
Ken
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Not exactly project related but in a way it is…
I’m starting to get my Cat’s Den (garage) set up for for her.
Towards that end I found a deal on these:
Linkable LED Shop Light 4ft 42W 5000K 4800LM Super Bright, Garage Lighting Fixture, with Pull Chain(ON/Off) 5000K (6PK)
Cost me 88 bucks.
With the weather finally starting to break I think I can stand it and get it organized.
Lots of tool boxes, no work bench.
Sent final payment for the 351W and 4spd so now I really do have to get off my butt and get organised.
1st order of business is the get the motor and trans yanked and clean up the engine bay.
2nd order of business is the rebuild the front end.
3rd order of business is replace rear springs
4th is get engine converted to roller rockers and assembled
5th is stab in engine / 4spd with new mounts
6th is new driveshaft (if too short/long)
7th is install new headers/exhaust
8th is install clutch pedal
9th is replace fuel system with FI tank and new lines
10th is install new radiator and hoses
11th is install Holley Sniper EFI
12th is pull out dash and fix whatever the PO did to it
13th is new tire/rim combo
14th is replace bench with new seats and console
15th ENJOY
I think I would do the dash and the pedals at the same time. It will make it worth while to pull the seat so you have better access.
I am the worst about “while I am at it I might as well” I keep telling myself to stop taking things apart! But while you are at it… the best time to look at brake hard lines is while the engine is out. And with the seats out you can rebuild the HVAC box while you are in the dash.
Make sure that while doing #7, that you consider the placement of the O2 sensor.
Get your 9 inch from a 1969-70 Cougar / Mustang. Make sure that you get the factory backing plates with the rear end. Definitely want those 2 inch rear brakes.
I’m thinking of running an electric water pump.
Anyone run one on a 351W?
Rickyracer1983 dropped off the 351W and 4spd yesterday (Thanks again)
Now I start putting her back together and get it ready for install.
One step closer… 50 or so to go.
I’m ever so slowly edging towards getting started …
I bought a Quick Jack lift, engine stand and hoist.
I’ve decided not to go Holley Sniper and instead am going with an Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4 EFI System and everything from the Total Power Package minus the intake.
The stimulus will help with parts 
I want to re-assemble the engine but I don’t think I have the tools or know-how to do it properly.
With that in mind, anyone know of someone I can trust in the Las Vegas area (say in a 100 mile radius)?
I also decided to do the Shelby drop along with the 1" drop coils. I’ll also do 1" drop rears.
Did you put in an extra transparent inline fuel filter between the tank and the fuel pump just before going into the pump?
It has to be clear plastic so you can see if it’s clogging up. The glass ones are reported to be dangerous.
Sometimes you’ll go through fuel filters like crazy. Still its best to clean the fuel system out at some point or better yet, replace the tank and fuel lines entirely.
Just got some work done and thought I’d give you an update.
Front End redone with 1" drop coils and Shelby Drop
Thinking of going with these rims: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crr-325699
and running 225/45/15’s all the way around. Thoughts?
Had some of those in the past. The slotted lug nut holes quickly wore and the wheels were thus not centered on the hub any more. Car hopped going down the road. Ruined tires quickly. Sold the set at a loss. Not a good idea. You can special order them drilled for Ford pattern. Much stronger.