I'm a Cougar owner again!!!

Thanks for the heads up, I didn’t notice they slotted. Asking Cragar for proper part number.

Those look good.

Agree - looking good! What size did you end up with?

Those are 225/70R-14 COOPER COBRA RADIAL G/T’s on American Racing CLASSIC TORQ THRUST II’s.

I also just got in AFR-1351 cylinder heads as the bottom end checked out. I’m swapping to a 4v intake and using the Holley I got with the 351W.
I still plan on building out the 351W and 4 speed but I will be able to enjoy the car while I do it.

I have decided that I am not going to use the Holley carb on the intake and instead installing a FiTech fuel injection.
Depending on how satisfied I am with the install I may not build out the 351W and sell the complete motor and parts.

Question: Will the 4 speed I got with the 351 mate up to the 302? If not I will sell that as well.

Things have changed since the last update:

  1. FiTech bought and ready for install.
  2. Electric water pump prepped for install.
  3. Bought HEI distributor for the 302 so no more coil.
  4. Probably have to replace alternator to help power the electrics. Any suggestions?

I’m still trying to source brackets for the alternator and PS Pump that work with electric water pump.

I’m going into lurk mode since it doesn’t seem like anyone wants to answer any questions.
I’ll post when I have the car back on the road… maybe.

I’m disappointed to read your post. I am not online as much as I used to be. But everyone has to do what is right for them. I hope you reconsider your decision.
I read your post your posts, I assume your looking for an answer to your transmission question. Yes, a 351W transmission will bolt to a 302. Just about everything is the same except the distributor, intake and heads.
Here is a good read:
https://www.mcnallyinstitute.com/can-you-engine-swap-a-302-with-a-351-w/

Whatever decision you make in reference to this site, I pray that you have blessed and safe motoring.

Steven

Keep in mind not everyone will know the answers to your questions or if they do they may not have seen your post. While its nice to post a question and receive the exact answer it cant be a replacement for your own research either. This community does lean towards more complete original restoration vs a “modified” restoration so I too have posted questions with very little response which is perfectly ok, I still enjoy the community and seeing everything guys are doing to their cougars. We all have the same interest and common goal just with varying flavors that we each prefer. I would not let not getting an answer stop you from posting. Keep posting your progress as we all love to see photos along the way!

I had been following along this thread but did not see your last couple posts. While I cant answer all your questions I can make a recommendation to the alternator question. You certainly should upgrade your OEM alternator with your planned waterpump and fuel injection upgrade. I assume you may even run electric fans too? If so even more reason to step up the alternator. A GM style 1 wire is a common upgrade or you can use the 3G alternators as well. Lots of options in this area. I chose to run a GM 1 wire setup and rebuilt every battery cable with larger gauge wiring at the same time. These alternators are simple bolt in install on factory brackets and even look pretty original if that’s something that matters to you at all.

Best of luck on your project and hope to keep seeing updates posted here.

Out of lurk mode

I sold the 351W and 4spd to finish buying parts for the top end rebuild.

So new plan:
1st Clean up the engine bay.
2nd Rebuild the front end and Shelby Drop (done)
3rd Replace rear springs (maybe not since I like the ride height but it needs shocks)
4th Tear down engine to short block
5th Install new gas tank with return line sending unit.
6th Install heads / intake
7th Install new headers / H pipe exhaust (muffler shop to finish out)
8th Install electric water pump
9th Install FiTech and new lines
10th Install new radiator and hoses
11th Install 140 amp alternator and brackets (PS bracket too)
12th Replace non-existent dash and gauge replacement
13th New tire/rim combo (done)
14th Replace bench with new seats and install console
15th Possible AOD conversion
16th Install trans cooler since new rad doesn’t have one.
17th ENJOY

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Spent this weekend tearing engine down, got everything except heads.
Bought a few small items from WCCC for the tank and a gasket kit.
Also pulled the entire exhaust out.

Next weekend the heads come off and I prep the block.
I’ll probably throw the tank in loosely until the fuel pump and filter get installed.

I plan on having her on the road by the end of next month so I can break her in and retorque everything. The ultimate goal is to see some of you guys in Scottsdale and/or Salem next year.

Getting closer… Looks like it will be end of Oct. No issues so far.

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Keep at it , a someone that only recently “got there”, the last month can be the hardest.

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Freaking philistines. I’m sorry to hear they murdered your sweetheart. =(

If you’re going to go with a 4 speed overdrive automatic, think hard about the 4R70W instead of the AOD!

But without getting back into that mess (unless you want to ask questions!) think about the good old C4 really hard. Depending on your goals, it’s very light, incredibly strong, shifts great, and works well with the gear ratios these cars came with.

Wishing you all the best - and love your “new” Cougar!!

Plan Update:
1st Clean up the engine bay. (done)
2nd Rebuild the front end and Shelby Drop (done)
3rd Replace rear springs (maybe not since I like the ride height but it needs shocks)
4th Tear down engine to short block. (done)
5th Install new gas tank with return line sending unit. (done)
6th Install heads / intake (in progress)
7th Install new headers / H pipe exhaust (muffler shop to finish out)
8th Install electric water pump (in progress)
9th Install FiTech and new lines (in progress)
10th Install new radiator and hoses (in progress)
11th Install 140 amp alternator and brackets (PS bracket too) (in progress)
12th Replace non-existent dash and gauge replacement
13th New tire/rim combo (done)
14th Replace bench with new seats and install console (Not doing)
15th Possible AOD conversion
16th Install trans cooler since new rad doesn’t have one. (in progress)
17th ENJOY

Only muffler guy in town wants to charge me $600 for mufflers and exhaust after the H pipe.

It would either be a rebuild of the C4 with any updates or something with OD.

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Plan Update:
1st Clean up the engine bay. (done)
2nd Rebuild the front end and Shelby Drop (done)
-3rd Replace rear springs (Not doing but will replace shocks)
**4th Tear down engine to short block. (done)
**5th Install new gas tank with return line sending unit. (done)
**6th Install heads / intake (done)
7th Install complete exhaust from WCCC
**8th Install electric water pump (Replaced WP instead - done)
**9th Install FiTech and new lines (done)
10th Install new radiator and hoses (done - but issue with heater lines)
**11th Install 140 amp alternator and brackets (done)
12th Replace non-existent dash and gauge replacement
**13th New tire/rim combo (done)
–14th Replace bench with new seats and install console (Not doing)
15th Possible AOD conversion (probably just going to rebuild C4)
**16th Install trans cooler since new rad doesn’t have one. (done)
17th ENJOY

What’s left:
I had an issue with the FiTech where it would start but then die.
Before I could do much troubleshooting with the vendor, the car lost all power.
Ended up being a very VERY dead battery which I was going to replace anyway.

Now that the car starts (and sounds pretty mean with open exhaust) I can move onto my last two issues with the driveline.
A: Install that exhaust so the O2 sensor can get good readings and learn
B: Figure out what I am going to do about the plumbing for the heater core.
The new HEI distributor is larger then OEM so there is interference with the intake line
I need a 90 or 45 that is low enough to clearance the dizz or install block off and forget it.

Once that is done I am thinking of going with a waterless coolant and I can drive the car while I save up for Phase II which will probably be the rebuild of the C4. Phase III will be interior as it is pretty hacked up looking at it. The controls for the heater are disconnected from the core, there is only (at most) 10% of the dashpad left, no headliner and the bench needs to be redone.

I still don’t have a fuel gauge even though I replaced the sender so I think I need to remove the dash and see if I can fix it or replace the whole thing with modern gauges. It’s been three years getting to this point so I don’t want to dive right into it just yet.

Tying into the battery means I have to disconnect it when not driving.
Research says I should tie into the red-green wire of the ignition switch.

Is that true or is there a better switched 12v source?

What? 600 for muffler and pipe? Retirement, I suppose. Sorry.

I have created a separate source with switch and relay through a power bank off the battery. It seems to work very well and gives a great source to add, change, or remove items without tapping any elder wiring. It eases my mind not touching that spaghetti