You send your rebuild-able core and one week later you get back a blasted clean, calibrated, and completely functional sending unit. Includes new reproduction filter sock, brass float, square cut o-ring gasket and best of all, a new thermistor to make your low fuel light work again.
Each sender is disassembled, inspected, cleaned and blasted. The internal wire wound resistor is carefully cleaned. Every connection is verified, and re-soldered if needed. The internal contact sweep arm is adjusted to insure correct calibration. Pictures of your sender being tested available at your request at no additional charge. The remains of the old thermistor are carefully removed and a new epoxy dipped thermistor is installed and also tested.
I own 7 XR-7s at the moment and just got tired of trying to find a sending unit that works. I invested the time to learn everything I could about these and I am now rebuilding them for others.
USPS Return shipping included in USA. Canadian and International shipping is extra. I would prefer to get some pictures of your core before you send it, but in any case if after disassembly it turns out your core is not rebuild-able all you pay for is the return postage, about $10 (USA).
This is actually a pretty good core so if your looks like this it can be saved.
I recommend sending me pics by PM or you can text my phone, or email them, before sending in your sender.
Considering everything you have done for the Cougar community, send it to me and let me see what I can do. I suspect that I can transplant the OEM wire wound resistor from a parts sender into your repro and then calibrate it like I would an OEM piece. I will do this one at no charge. There is a chance that it can’t be done so there is that.
Send it along maybe I can bring it back to life. I have found a few odd things. The wire resistors are really pretty delicate but can be saved if there’s enough left to work with.
These senders have been trickling in. I did one for Steve L. in Ohio that was in really rough shape. The brass bullet that holds the thermistor was almost completely dissolved.
The sweep arm was completely gone so I had to get one from a parts unit supplied by Scott Taylor restorations (Thanks Scott!)
The thermistor was also basically gone.
I made a new bullet and was able to install a new sweep arm. If I ever have to do this again it will be an extra charge. This one took an entire day to completely sort out. Here is the finished unit showing 10.4 ohms, back in spec and fully functional. You can see the new bullet.
Nice Bill! I’m wondering if anything can be done to fix the standard / non low fuel ones as well. I had an original C8 one that wasn’t working, ohm readings all over the place. Tried to open it up and clean the contacts but it didn’t help. Switched it out for a repro stainless one. Now with a full tank it’s reading 1/4 full.
I think the problem with plating it is that you would really need something that is highly conductive to let the unit ground effectively. But that same highly conductive plating would cause all kinds of problems with all of the electrical connections. Inside the tank the sender is going to get covered with shellac pretty quickly as it gets constantly splashed with gas that dries, and then gets splashed again. Some of the residue I am removing is pretty thick.
I think you may have just hit on the problem with the new stainless units, I was just talking to Richard about this the other day. He was theorizing that the stainless steel doesn’t ground as well. Further testing required to prove this theory…
A heads up… I am getting in senders with pretty severe damage to the float and in some cases the internal sweep arm in the variable resistor box. Even the steel parts are pitted. It tells me that fuel stabilizer is a very good idea if your Cougar is parked most of the time. The float is an easy replacement, but the internal parts are not an easy fix.
It is incredible but these things are specific for each year. The '67 used a smaller feed tube, 5/16", your rubber hose will be too small for a '68. The '68 used the larger 3/8" tube so you will want to stay with that so your rubber fuel line will fit. The '69 has a longer float arm for the larger 20 gallon tank, and they also changed the pin out so it won’t connect correctly with '67 or '68. The '70 has an even longer float arm for the larger 22 gallon tank.
