New vs restored steering wheel

What are your preferences/experiences with new vs restored steering wheels?

I have the two spoke deluxe steering wheel in my 68 cougar and it seems like the price of a new steering wheel from ACP and the cost to restore my current one is roughly the same, around ~ $550. Any benefits in going one way over the other?

You know your original fits.

I got a repro once that had some pieces misplaced before they were welded onto the hub. Fortunately I only lived about 15 miles from the NPD store and they made it right immediately, but there was still the inconvenience.

I’ve bought three of the new ones. All three were assembled with incorrect hardware in such a way that the horn was shorted to ground. Had to replace the screws with proper length and do away with the extra washers to cure them. No experience with a restored one but hopefully the restored one would come with the hardware installed properly at least.

How have those wheels lasted over time?

I’ve heard stories about the restored steering wheels coming apart, mostly at the steel/mylar bands in a short period of time. If the new steering wheels require a simple hardware swap fix and are durable thereafter, I rather go that route.

The oldest one is three years ago. Still looks great.

Rimblow/Best in Show in Ventura, CA restored mine about 15 (yikes!!!) years ago. It still looks like the day I got it back.
https://www.rimblowrestoration.com/contact

I’m in SoCal as well and was looking at Best In Show as the restoration option. Unfortunately, the reviews on durability I read up on was from here. I read that quality of the work has decreased over the years, so not surprised that the one you had done 15 years ago is still fantastic. But again, these are just the experience of a few…who knows.

From another Gary, I had mine done 3-4 years ago. Not pleased. I don’t want to trash here so I will just say that it has worn through the gloss finish and now through the wood colored finish under the gloss.

Gary

Yea, don’t think it is trashing. An honest review is an honest review. In my opinion, I would expect something with a restoration cost of $500+ to have some durability. If this was a museum piece that I never drove and everything had to be absolutely original, sure I’d restore. But I want to enjoy the car and drive it without wearing knitted mittens on my hands :laughing: .

I sell both and have been supplying Best In Show with cores for many years. The problem with restored is filling cracks with a dissimilar filler will in time show stress cracks as heat causes the wheel to expand and contract. If you live in a mild climate like the PNW and the core you sent had minimal or no cracks your restoration could last decades. Send in a core with chunks missing, open cracks and you live in AZ, you will have issues in a short amount of time. Keep in mind the 68 repros are just solid color wheels that Best in Show has painted faux woodgrain on. The 69 and 70-73 on the other hand actually have a texture to them that resembles wood, not a paint on finish.

https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/100022616.html?sessionthemeid=26

https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/17662/19587-clone1/steering-wheel-rim-blow-deluxe-woodgrain-1970-1974-mercury-cougar-/-1970-1973-ford-mustang-clone.html?sessionthemeid=26

Thanks Don! Always great to have someone’s input who deals with these cars day in and out.

My understanding is, and please correct me if I’m wrong, that when sending in your cores for restoration, Best In Show also paints on the faux woodgrain surface. So all things considered, along with the fact that it would have to brave SoCal weather, I think my best bet would be to go with the New Repro.

Yes, Best in Show is painting on woodgrain whether you buy repro or restored. No texture like original, just paint…

After taking everything into consideration, I went a bit rogue with my steering wheel choice and decided to “DIY”. It started with a standard black ACP steering wheel that I then hydrodipped and cleared. I’m really happy with the results, let me know what you all think.


Masked off everything besides the wood grain surface

Hit it with a tan undercoat

Continued on next post

Then I hydrodipped using the following film: HYDROGRAPHIC FILM WATER TRANSFER PRINTING FILM HYDRO DIP STRAIGHT WOODGRAIN1 1SQ | eBay

After dipping, wrapping with a mylar band on the outside and inside diameter, and clearing with 2K High Gloss



Grain isn’t spot on, but close enough.

Restored the hornpad while I was at it. Painting the cougar emblem was a pain in the ***.



Don’t mind the mess, here is the dash area, fully restored at this point.

Very nice work!

Perfect application of the hydro-dipping photo decal transfer method. I’d love to see someone do the same with the dash panels, if the original wood grain was too faded, but the actual housing was still structurally sound. It would seem to be a perfect application.

Looks great! My only concern is how long the hydrodipping lasts in a heavy use environment.

I had the same concerns, initially, and I guess only time will tell. Seeing how the restored/new options out there are hand painted and cleared I can’t imagine how it would be any different for hydrodipping after it is cleared. I put 4 coats of 2K clear on, layering it on thick. Fingers crossed!

Yup, that’s a great idea! I did search around for a hydographic film to accomplish what you mentioned, but was not able to find a close enough match.
You can have your own custom film printed though, so in theory, I guess if you had the file that contained the image for the vinyl overlays that WCCC sells you’d be on the right path.

Nice work, it came out great.