Can’t get any of the power windows to work from any switch. Where’s the best place to start to tackle this problem?
At the power source. Start at the starter solenoid. The lead to the relay should be on the starter post. If it is on the starter side it is not getting power.(I had a 69 that somebody ripped apart the main door switch harness looking for the problem when it was here). If you have power from the solenoid check the relay. It cuts the power to the windows when the ignition switch is off.
Beyond this I highly recommend getting a copy of the wiring diagram.
In my experience, the relay is often the culprit. Check for battery power into the relay, and then check if the relay is energized when the key is switched to run or accessory
Can I just wire the two wires that go to the bottom of the relay together temporarily to bypass it and see if that’s the issue?
Maybe, but first I would use a Volt meter or a test light to see if the out put side is getting voltage. If it is then shorting them together will not help. I would also use a ohm meter to check the side to the switches for a short to ground. if there is a short wiring the leads together could be a disaster.
Here are some pics of the setup. Thought I would post to see if anything stands out to anyone as an obvious issue. I’ve got the wiring diagram and a volt meter but still don’t know exactly what to test and which wire does what.
Which is the output and which is side to switches?
Looking at your picture of the relay mounted on the shock tower, the center terminal is power from the battery through the circuit breaker, the left terminal with heavy black wire goes to switches, and the red wire on the right is power from ignition switch that turns relay on and off.
If the circuit barker went bad it could be your problem
I’m sure you know you will need to hook up your battery to do any tests. And it was a good plan to disconnect while your taking things apart.
Also, the case of the relay and the mounting bracket provides the relay ground. Ensure you have a good clean connection there as well.
Thanks. How do I test the circuit breaker and if it’s bad is that something I could get at a local parts store or is it another specialty item.
There is power to the relay when switch is on. I got 0.02 on the power to trip relay wire from ignition and 0 on the power to switches but power from starter solenoid and circuit breaker to window relay is the same or about the same as the battery.
After getting this car back from the shop the drivers window doesn’t fit right at all and the door is hard to close. Fit great before but now the window seems out of track and out of whack. I’ve wanted to get the windows rolled down since I got it back but nothing works and my findings I’ve stated above. Since I have power to the relay virtually no voltage to the trigger wire from the ignition and none at the power to the switches, can I wire the power to the relay directly to the power to switches wire and roll the windows down so I can try to adjust?
Try a jumper to the Triger post first. If that does not work then try jumping to the switch post. The relay may have gone T/U.
Also, what was being done at the body shop? Did they have reason to play with the window?
Jumper to the trigger post? How can I do this?
what is T/U?
Familiar with the history of my situation and why the car was at the shop? Who knows what happened and for what reason. Only reason I can think that they needed to play with the window was to get it up so it could be in long term storage outside and prevent water damage to the interior.
Jumpers can be made in many ways. A section of wire and some terminals crimped on or alligator clips.
T/U is short hand for T!t’s up, dead, toast ect.
Have you taken the door panel off to view the inner workings? 69 glass is well known for coming unglued from the brackets. If the shop working on the car could not get the window to go up using the power switch they may have just pulled on it. If the glue was on its way out they may have finished the job.The regulator could also be going bad and binding. Have the inner workings ever been worked on before? If not it could be a case of old original grease that is all dried out and no longer lubricating anything. The only way to really know is to take a visual inspection.
Please define door is hard to close. Are the hinges stiff? Does the latch not line up with the striker? Does the door glass overlap the quarter glass? Something else?
Randy Goodling
CCOA #95
Lol, I say T/U sometimes too but my wife does not appreciate it.
Yeah you can bypass relay by jumpering from center terminal to switch terminal on left with a heavy jumper and see if windows work. That way the circuit breaker will still be in line to protect against shorts.
Not yet but the drivers window is definitely out of alignment and has come unglued. It’s too far back and too high. It overlaps the quarter window. It’s only hard to close because the glass is not where it’s supposed to be.
I jumped the center to the switch wire and got them all down. This basically mean I need a new relay? The left one is definitely unglued but was able to get it down. Any tips on adjustments, servicing and re-glueing?