Just like the title says, getting ready to bleed the front brakes on my 68, I managed to twist off the bleeder on the right side caliper 
what do you guys suggest? Should I try drilling the hole in the bleeder stub a bit bigger and use an easy-out?
I would try the easy-out. Try to heat up the area with MAP gas torch, it’s hotter then the regular propane gas
You do know brake fluid burns, right!
Personally, I would try a small easy out before drilling a larger hole. They make very small easy outs and you may need to grind the end of said easy out off to make it shorter to grab the broken bleeder. They are pretty cheap and the drilling just creates a chance of a chip getting where you don’t want it.
He will be aok… the flame,will not contact the fluid if the bleeder is broken in the down postition. It will help greatly if he gets it nice & hot. He should clamp the brake hose and remove the caliper to do this, will make the job easier
There is no way an easy-out is going to work. If the screw was seized enough to twist off, the stub is not coming out with something less than what snapped off (an easy-out for instance). The only way to possibly get it out is heating the surrounding area close to cherry red and then MAYBE an easy-out would work. And in that circumstance, the caliper would likely need a rebuild.
The other thing you could possibly do is use one of those thread in inserts (which you have to drill and tap the size of into the caliper) which has a bleeder screw in it.
Lastly (and probably the easiest thing to do) is order a Cardone rebuilt exchange unit from Advance (and use the best online ordering discount you can find, usually 20-30%). As I write this, I am wondering if Advance still is handling Cardone rebuild stuff. I seem to recall they cut way back or some such a few years back?
Hope this helps!
Here you go: $22.99 exchange.
Get the side you need of course…
I would have both calipers rebuilt.
Thanks for the input, guys. I soaked it with PB Blaster last night so maybe that will loosen it up enough for the easy out to work, but you’re probably right and the easy out will just snap. I’ll give it a try at lunchtime and if it doesn’t work, $22.99 sounds like a good plan.
I have removed my fair share of broken stuff with an easy out and pb baster. I like the left hand drill bits as well to first drill then fit the corresponding easy out. Give it a shot, worst case is you break the easy out and get a new caliper.
Normally, I fight through hurdles like these. But based on what you described, I would just get another caliper.
Replace BOTH sides.
Well, I fought the good fight and after much heat and violence, I got it out. Buggered up the threads to the point that the caliper is now junk. But dammit, I got it out!!!
$22.99 - 30% you mean!! I mean, c’mon, is that not a SCHMOKIN’ deal?
The only thing schmokin’ right now is my workbench.
The procedure I use when a bleeder screw (or exhaust manifold stud or nut, etc.) will not move is: Use heat on the surrounding cast (many times even a plumbing torch is enough), use some penetrating oil and (this has been key for me) apply less than the force needed to break the screw - in both directions. If you get the thing to move, you are on your way to “winning” the battle. Then, work it back and forth, applying more oil as needed and increase the movement until the screw is free and can be backed all the way out. Chase the treads in the hole and replace the screw.
I heated, reheated and overheated this thing about a dozen cycles after it had soaked about 30 hours in PB Blaster. Inevitably, my extractor broke off. After some more heating and cooling and hammering, I managed to get the broken off bit of extractor to drop out. I then drilled the hole out so that I could use a bigger extractor but it still wouldn’t budge. In the end, I resorted to splitting the bleeder down the side with a narrow chisel and breaking out the threaded portion of the bleeder bit by bit-- unfortunately, destroying the casting threads at the same time. At that point, it really didn’t make much sense to continue, but like a madman, I felt the need to nevertheless finish the job. The very bottom portion of the bleeder was still imbedded down by the seat and I was able to extract that by tapping it to accept the end of a 6-32 machine screw with a nut an washer which I then was able to run down against the top of the casting, making a crude puller. The satisfaction of my cleverness in removing the final piece of the bleeder almost makes up for the fact that I destroyed the caliper and probably won’t get my core exchange for it.
I believe you taught it a lesson.
I feel your pain. Need to drill a broken extractor out of a broken water pump bolt on my '67…
Good luck trying to drill out the extractor- those things are extremely hard and brittle. One thing I’ve seen done but have never tried is to weld a nut onto the remaining stub of the bolt or whatever and then you can use a socket or wrench, plus the heat from welding usually frees it up.