I am about to start on the front end update to a 1970 xR7 coil springs, shocks, control arms, etc. I have already purchased the shocks and the new springs (with a 1” drop) from WCCC. Is there any way to tell if the spring perches, upper control arms and/or lower control arm replaced? I want to try to keep as original as possible but I do not want to put a car on the road that is unsafe and/or poor control. Just curious if anyone has any ideas how you tell if these items need to be replaced. Thanks for any help.
The spring perch bushings probably should be replaced along with the lower arm bushings and boots. Here’s what they should look like for a 70. Notice the tabs on the sway bar link mounting hole.
The upper control arm and spring perches take most of the wear on the front end. If your car has around 100K miles usually everything is shot. I would rebuild the upper arms with shaft kits and new ball joints. The roller spring perches offered by several vendors are easy to install and those need to be replaced as well.
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Thanks for the feedback. Is there any benefit from replacing the both arms and spring perches vs just replacing the bushings and ball joints on the arms and spring perch?
Are Scott drake control arms/perches with the money vs MOOG vs TRQ? The price difference is pretty significant.
sadly most parts are now made from inferior quality material. Upper A-arms are made from thinner metal, poor fake rubber (synthetic), and junk components. Moog no longer makes arms worth your money.
Best to rebuild the uppers you have.
Like Bill says the originals are hard to beat. Buying new stuff often is not as good as rebuilding the original stuff. Like here for example.
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Thanks Royce. I have not heard of a shaft kit regarding an upper control arm. What is that? What can you do if your ball joint is riveted in vs bolted in? Options
Thanks Bill I appreciate your help sir. What would you “rebuild” on an upper and lower control arm? Would you just replace the entire perch or rebuild the old?
They were riveted originally. If they have ever been replaced likely you have bolts now. Upper shaft kits are available at any auto part store and they are all over eBay and Amazon.
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if its a driver, Moog, trw are fine for lower.
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Thank you 70scj4spvert, you mentioned replacing the lower control arm boot, should the while ball joint be replaced?
Also, can I pick up the spring perch bushing at a local auto parts store or would you recommend getting them from another retailer?
Thanks again for your help
Absolutely replace the boot with the ball joint. You will also need the retainer which will probably get destroyed upon disassembly. The bushing is available from NPD but verify your application.
Thank you 70scj4spvert. I appreciate the information. This process is totally new to me. How do you remove that bushing? I have been looking at pictures and I can not figure out if it is screwed in or held in by a retaining clip or something.
Does the metal retainer typically come with a gasket?
Thank you again sir
OK, here’s a bit of info & how to do.
First, the lower arms as they are pretty much swapout no rebuild (unless doing show).
1st pics show the design differences.
Moog are top 2, OE design is the thinner one at bottom
Better pic of difference
Next is upper arms.
I find you can use most any arm as long as it not too damaged.
Shaft kit, by Moog, no longer avail. Best Ive found (lots of junk beware) is
movoTech #ME MS40908
Special zerk kit. Scott Drake better- Alum base strips easy on Calif. Pony version
Ball joints are still avail both 3 & 4 bolt versions
Insert shaft in the arm
Center by measuring
Weld them in
Align hole for cotter pin
All done ready to install
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wow!!! Thank you cougar Bill for the help. That is awesome and those look great. Quick question, why do you need to weld? It look like they just bolt on. Are you welding the nut to the upper control arm?
Had planned to post this write up a bit ago, you gave me the push!
The shafts are welded to the arms. This is a must!
Brand new repops need this too, as Ive had several customers with issues due to the nut backing off the shaft.
If you look closely you will see the threads in the arms & outer threads on the end nuts are really nothing. The shaft threads are what matters. As long as the shaft turns, and not the nut in the arms. Great time to drill the “Shelby drop”…
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Thank you sir for the tips. I appreciate your help. you got it down.
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What is the purpose of the bushings in the middle part of the upper control arm shafts?
I was wondering the same thing.