Put 3400mi on the complete body, interior, and suspension rebuild. Pulled the tired old block for a rebuild. Sadly, it’s a 74 302, but prior to the deck height change. (it’s the little things)
Before I put the block back in and search for a 69/70 302 Windsor with Cleveland spec build (4 bolt main), I have a flaming River Column I want to install for tilt as well as an AOD upgrade.
Has anyone installed a gm style connector to the 67 for column?
I know I have to install a horn relay, (no prob), but the hazard is what I am uncertain of.
As I understand, a few diodes and a relay will make it work via the Enot wire (or 514 on diagram), but I am not certain that is correct. Any suggestions will be valuable.
Photo of the block is prior to rebuild. The daggum rings came out in pieces and a scarred 8 cylinder. Jeechitx.
If you put a 67 tilt away column in it will add value to your car. Aftermarket columns tend to do the opposite as the new columns don’t have the same functionality in the term signal switch and the wiring is usually pretty sketchy. Tony Augustine rebuilds Ford columns and may have what you need.
Given all that, aftermarket columns have been successfully installed. Because the turn signal scheme changed many times during the 67 through 70 production you need to verify any advice applies to your car.
Ididit makes a tilt column that has Ford splines and a Ford turn signal switch. Not sure if they have one for a 67, but the one I have is for 68-69 and works fine in my 69 XR 7. I had to get a rag joint from Borgeson to connect the column to my steering gear.
I would avoid the pursuit of 4 bolt mains. Even on the legendary Boss itself, there’s no agreement whether the extra bolt holes were a detriment to reliability instead of an improvement!
If you intend to build a high RPM screamer (9k, etc) with 500, 600, or more horsepower that you intend to abuse regularly, instead, get an aftermarket block. It is both possible and common to get an early block to handle big RPMs with enough prep and attention to detail, but it will never be as reliable or cheap, and it seems a tragedy to deprive some concours restoration.
If you go with AOD, keep in mind, the shift quality is solidly ‘meh’ in stock form, and won’t handle your 347 long without burning up. If you do full-throttle shifts into 3rd or 4th gears, it will shear the fragile 2 piece mechanical torque converter lockup. All of that can be fixed if you throw about $3000 at it, probably at the expense of the lockup to gain a one-piece input shaft that’s much stronger.
Its descendant, the 4R70W is stronger, more reliable (can handle about 450 hp stock) is far easier to adjust for shift points/firmness, and has a lower 1st and 2nd gear, which is nice for street. Best of all, even with a controller, the total cost is usually under $1000, which sure beats setting up an AOD.
Well the absolute great news is that I totally failed on the flaming River Column. It was supposed to be Ford splined, but after wiring it near completely, relays, diodes, and one step from cutting the old column shaft for connecting, I decided it would be a good time to check the wheel hub. Doh!
AOD is in. Yay.
