Paul, I have the TCP subframe connectors you linked to. The subframe connectors are welded onto to your front and rear subframes and the cross support piece with the driveshaft loop bolts the subframe connectors. I do not have the cross piece but I am considering buying it to complete the package. The TCP subframe connectors fit tight right up against the floor pans and are not really visible when the car is on the ground. Here is a picture of mine installed. Wish I had a better picture to share but at the time I only had a crappy flip phone.
Mustang subframe connectors won’t fit the Cougar. The longer wheel base requires a different design.
2x2 tubing. Use plates on the back to weld to rear frame. Cut out the back of the front subframes. Add 1/8 plate to 2x2 tubes, they will slide into the front subframes. Measure where to bend, slice the tubing, do not cut completely through, bend tubing. Once everything is tight to the floor, tack weld. Remove, finish weld, reistalll. Drill holes through front subrframe to plug weld. Drill holes on the rear plates to plug weld. Drill holes through the floor to braces to plug weld. You can even add 11 g plates on the floor to plug weld and weld to the floor. Why attach to the floor? Like any any other unibody, attaching it all together will give it more strength. Cost, about $40 worth of metal…if that
They do look easy enough to build yourself. I’m undecided on sub frame connectors as it’s going to be a while before I have enough power to need them but interior is out now and if I can build them it’s pretty much free. I even have a tube bender, I could probably build something much like the tcp setup
What I have experienced in frame modifications in the off-road world where anything that can flex will flex it’s always better to weld it vs bolt in. Makes a pain to remove if you ever want to but in reality will you ever need to remove a subframe connector for something? However bolting in gets the job done of you do not have access to a welder.
Dragging up an old topic here. A previous reply states that the Mustang SF connectors will not fit the Cougar do to the longer wheelbase. However, most of the mfg. show them as the same.
What was your experience with the TCP?
Anyone else have any other suggestions?
Thanks in advance for your reply.
Brian
Hi Brian,
I am very happy with my TCP subframe connectors, they fit well and closely follow the floor pan. Lengthwise they were exactly the correct length for my 68 Cougar. They fit perfectly between the front and rear subframes. I ordered my set at Ford Carlisle a few years back and spoke to the salesman directly so he knew my installation was for a Cougar and not a Mustang. If you are concerned that they may ship you the wrong length call them before placing the order.
As far as TCP products, overall I think they are great. I also have their manual rack and pinion steering and front sway bar. Jim R.
Have a look at the Heidts part number RM-102. I bought a set for my 68, not installed yet but I fitted under the car and they look like they’ll work fine and are a bolt on. The only thing I am changing is the position of the fuel line where it crosses in front of the leaf spring mount on the driver’s side. I’ll post a pic when completed.
Any body do them for 69 Cougar convertable ?
No experience on a convertible. I did the bolt in on my '70 which saw plenty of track miles before I bought a dedicated race car. As someone said previously on the thread, these stiffen front to rear, but you still need to do side to side. I also did the sub-frame connector that the lower control arms bolt on. All this together and now jacking one point on the side of the car lifts the entire side of the car up (much like a roll cage).
For the racing comment, if you are road racing, sub frame connectors are useless. A proper roll cage tied into the subframe around the car will provide superior integrity and safety. Sub-frame connectors at that point are just redundant and will add unnecessary weight.