Sub frame connectors

Cougar Community Classic Cougar Speed Shop
1

As the title says ,
I’m looking for guys who have installed sub frame connectors in a 67 or 68 , either weld in or bolt in. How did it go ? What types ? Manufacture by who ? What ones to stay away from and why ?

2

I’ve been contemplating the same. I hope someone who has done this chimes in.

3

I welded in Global West Sub Frame connectors on my '69 convertible, but I don’t like them. I ended up having to “tweak” them a bit with a tubing bender to get them to actually fit. They hang down too low for my taste also. I will end up cutting them off eventually and making my own using a pattern I acquired from the Internet some time ago.
I know it’s not '68 specific advice, but I hope it helps a little.

4

I have but have not yet installed the comp engineering bolt in ones. They seem like they might be on the low and bulky side but they are budget friendly

5

I’m going to go against the grain here (as usual) and offer my $0.02. In researching/experimenting with frame mods for my 68 convertible conversion, I learned that MOST subframe connectors, by themselves, do not really do that much. What you’re trying to eliminate in these unit bodies is not fore-aft bending, but rather, the twisting that occurs diagonally across the floor pan. Most subframe connectors simply connect the floor supports to the rear torque box, which helps, but not as much as you’d think. There was a guy on one of the Mustang forums years ago that did a rather elaborate and systematic test of his coupe, and actually measured the amount of deflection from corner to corner of the car after installing various add-ons, including subframe connectors. What ultimately gave the best result (short of getting into tube cages) was one of those metal rear seat panels, which makes sense if you think about it because it essentially shortens the box section of the car. By themselves, subframe connectors which only run fore and aft do little to stop the floor pan from twisting. That’s why convertibles have inner rockers connected to a big-assed torque box that runs sideways across the car underneath the front seats. TCP’s system (http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/subframe.html) does the same thing, i.e. creates a torque box across the center of the car to resist twisting.

6

Thanks for your inputs guys. I’m thinking I’ll still go for a set . The rear seat pan idea is also intriguing. Any idea of one that will fit the 67 rear or is the Mustang rear panel a direct fit ?

7

Mustang convertible pan is what I’ve heard used.

8

Hmmm … may need to look into that

9

Here is the link to the metal rear seat panel for the Cougar. Mustang units don’t fit. http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/p/13464-Divider-Rear-Seat-to-Trunk-Coupe-METAL-New-1969-1970-Mercury-Cougar.html
Steven

10

Apparently these are for the 69 and 70 only… or did I miss something? Have you installed one of those panels ?

11

Oops my bad. I copied the wrong link. Here is the link for the 67-68 steel divider plate: http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/p/13463-Divider-Rear-Seat-to-Trunk-METAL-New-1967-1968-Mercury-Cougar.html
Steven

12

ok…look like they would help…have you used these or know somebody who has by chance ?


thanks for replying BTW

13

I bet this would be a good upgrade. I still think especially if you are racing and launching I would definately run a set of subframe connectors still. Most racers who run bolt in sets recommend welding them after they have been bolted in because over time the bolt holes get ovalized from stress. That is some pretty good evidence that they are helping to stiffen things up. With your car looking like an autocross set up I’m a little surprised you hadn’t done a set yet

14

Lol. One would have thought …lol. Maybe do both , subframe and seat back panel…

15

For anyone interested, I found the thread where a guy did some actual testing of various chassis stiffening methods on a 67 Mustang. It’s an enlightening read. http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/torsional-rigidity-test-67-coupe.723029/

16

Checked it out. Now I have one more for the Christmas list.

17

Maier are the best, I use on all Mustang , Cougar projects

18

Sorry for the late response (just signed up), but my '68 has bolt on subframe connectors from a previous owner. I would definitely do weld-in instead of bolt in. They would do significantly more for torsional rigidity. I had an '87 Mustang GT that I welded in subframe connectors and it took out a lot of squeaks.

19

I’m grateful for Classic Cougar Community for keeping the years old thread intact. It’s helpful to learn from others even when a few year old.

After research, I’m going with this full weld/bolt kit for my 69 HT. It should give me the substantive results I’m looking for without modifying the trunk space with the behind the seat reinforcement.

https://www.cachassisworks.com/p-3415-mustang-64-70-cougar-67-70-hardtop-g-connector-system-standard-torque-arm.aspx

20

That will work but makes it problematic to service your vehicle and they also reduce ground clearance. I’ll presume you’re not racing or running a large cube big block motor. If so, I’d look at these. I decided on these for my Shelby. -Keith
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/CPP-6570SFC-B-1964-70-Ford-Mustang-Subframe-Connectors,268499.html