How hard would it be to put a t5 behind the 302 in the 68? I was lookin at one for a sbc for my 70 c10 stepside but I’m thinkin I’m gonna just use a 700r4 for that and make the cougar the fun car with a manual. While lookin at the chevy ones I would see the ones for a 5.0 and it got me thinkin…
T-5 is a popular swap into the Cougars. That is what 5.0 Mustangs had in the 80’s into the 90s. You can put the t-5 right to a toploader bell housing and use all the mechanical clutch linckage. Or, there are retrofit kits available to install hydraulic componants to operate the clutch.
http://www.cjponyparts.com/t5-transmission-conversion-kit-deluxe-289-302-351w-c-1968/p/T5CK12/
Note, this is the Modern Drive line kit.
I just received this kit, but for a 1970. I had them delete the drive shaft, about a $240.00 savings as it will not work in a Cougar. And I ordered the T-5Z from Summit Racing and it was about $200.00 less. Watch the Video. Great information but not all the little details are covered. I will be documenting my install in a few weeks.
https://youtu.be/noj8GAS-sp0
I recently did this to my 68 with 302/C-4. I bought all the parts from Modern Driveline. They (Bruce owner) are knowledgeable and will work with you if you have problems. I used their hydraulic clutch setup and easy to install clutch pedal. I did end up with a Type 1 slave instead of their normally supplied Type 2 to get good clutch disengage stroke.
I had my stock driveshaft shortened 3/4" which was recommended and matched my measurements for the C-4 versus T-5 setup. I installed a 3.80 Traction Lok differential (Tom Rebert - ford8and9inchrears.com).
I love driving it with the stick.
Great, thanks. Y’all are awesome!
Technically true, but not true. While the T5 has the same bolt pattern as the Toploader for attaching to the bell, the input shaft on the T5 is longer, so the toploader bell will only work with a spacer plate, which is also available from ModernDriveline(and others).
Second one down is the one I used. You have to drill two holes in your toploader bell to make the spacer work, as well.
Modern Driveline sells a bellhousing that is made for this and doesn’t require a spacer.
Lots of ways to make it work!
So a horrible event presents a great opportunity. A friend of mine’s brother wrecked their foxbody a few days ago. He was lucky and only ended up with deep cuts, dislocated hip, and broken ankle, also managed to nearly fling himself through the windshield. The car is totaled but it has a 302 with headers, ported and polished heads, intake and a “built” bottom end (their words from the previous owner before them) and a 5spd. Can I drop the complete motor and trans and retrofit it into the cougar with a 68 clutch pedal (mustang or cougar, does it matter)? He has offered me what’s left after he takes the Holley carb, rear end, and wheels, but I also want to at least pay them something.
mounting boss for the EQ bar will not be on later blocks. Also fuel pump in timing cover (mech) won’t be on later model stuff.
I’m still young and dumb, EQ bar? Planned on a possible electric fuel pump anyway. Or would it be easier to swap all the performance parts to my stock block?
The EQ bar is a “lever” between the pedal and the clutch fork.
http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/c7zz-7528-g.html
The answer to your other question is up to you & your budget.
You will need a pedal, and the other pieces for the conversion. Good chance you will need the threaded inserts in the frame too.
I personally like the factory setup over the hassle of Hyd throwout , or Hyd mast cyl.
A 15% parasitic power loss is expected w/ manual trans. Auto’s take more.
Yes, you can change to cable clutch setup. Check out mustang Steve dot com. He sells the setup, pedals, roller bearing setup, cable setup. Very reasonable. But, fox body headers will not work, shorty or long tube. Using factory manifolds works better with a cable setup and can save some cash if you already have a good exhaust. Get the driveshaft trans yoke as well. Cross members can be found for under $100.