You don’t want to permanently attach a tach power wire to battery, as it will run down the battery over time, just like leaving a radio on.
Yes this is temporary. Bench test only to make sure tach works.
There is a ground wire looks factory near the middle of the dash. Don’t think it was connected. Anyone know what it’s for. It’s around the ignition switch area but not sure where it leads to.
I had the tach working by wiring red wire to the battery, blue wire to battery side of coil and white wire to ground. Worked fine so I put it back in the cluster and put the cluster in the car. Attached ground to dash, blue wire back to coil and the red wire back to its plug that appears to be coming off the accessory stud on the fuse box. Car starts and runs good but now the tach doesn’t work again. Any ideas why it worked when I tested it and now it doesnt? Is it likely the power source wire to the accessory stud? Would the car crank and run fine with the tach hooked up like I have it but not read anything if the power source wire isn’t good? Also anyone know what the ground wire in the picture above may be for?
Anyone?
Disconnected red wire from yellow female 3 prong pictured that is connected to the accessory port and wired directly to the battery and the tach works.
It appears that your accessory port is not working, either because of a bad fuse, bad connection, or something else. Do you get 12V there with the key in ACC?
Accessory port also feeds the power window relay (for 1970 anyway). So if it is dead, that could also explain lack of power to power window relay.
That’s the weird thing. The windows started working again.
Intermittent connection. I think an earlier poster noticed some signs of hot wires or switch plastic around the ignition switch in your photo. See if you can wiggle the key and interrupt power to the accessory terminal. I bet you have a bad ignition switch.
Here’s the deal. The port that it plugs into in the 3 prong must be dead because if I wire to the accessory port directly it works.
You have a bunch of twisted together household wire splices that are going to cause a fire. All of that needs to be soldered with shrink wrap over it. You can fix it easily in place. Just needs to be fixed. Plugging things in isn’t going to fix it.
This is why you need a test light or a meter to diagnose electrical issues. You just can’t visually verify anything short of a wire cut in half.
Consistently, or could you be getting fooled by an intermittent connection? Maybe it’s there one time you turn it on and not the next? Knowing the state of your wiring, it’s sure possible the accessory pigtail is the problem. Could also be the ignition switch. Agree you need a test light or voltmeter to verify where you are losing 12V. Wiggle the ignition switch and accessory pigtail and make sure test light is on steady and doesn’t flicker. And yeah, you still should get those harnesses inspected/repaired. It’s just not possible for any of us to tell what wire needs to go where on that hacked up wiring harness.
You would not believe how many customers have faulty meters only to find it’s a bad connection - be it a scotchloc (gah), wire nut (really?), twisted and taped or crimped on the insulation. You cannot tell by looking.
Take their advise and get the right tools for the job - a test light or a volt meter or a test tone/buzzer.
Really 12 pages…
yes, but it works now…
Can you be more specific please I am having an issue!!!
No idea what you want.
Looks like a fake account maybe