Well I haven’t been around too much and haven’t done much to the 67 as I was suffering from bad lower back pain and pain down my right leg. Finally got my Xrays in and I have a cracked vertebrae and a bulging/herniated disc from what they can tell but now I am being booked for an MRI. So you can imagine not much has been done to the Cat that I would have to bend over to work on.
I managed to get the T-5 transmission in a little while back and have been working on tying in all the wiring for the fuel injection, the computer, and the new wiring harness. Also been carefully restoring the front lights and grill.
Now that is a little intimidating isn’t it??
Here’s the test of a color I think I am going to go with.
Here’s a few more pictures of tidying up the wiring after routing and a couple more of the finished headlight/grill. I still have to do the passenger side headlight which I am not looking forward to as it took so long.
Slow and steady is ok. In the end you’ll have a great car. The headlight and grille assembly looks great as does the engine compartment. Will you be using the vacum openers or changing to electric?
Wishing you the best with your back recovery.
Steven
The headlight grills look so good, What did you use on them for paint?
I have been there about the back thing. I had two bulging disks and had surgery to take care of it in 2003, I have not looked back, spent half my life with a bad back and now after some Titanium, im like knew. If you get it worked on, make sure it is the newest technology in back surgery and a Dr that knows what they are doing.
I stripped the headlight assembly completely and hand sanded every piece as I found that media blasting leaves and undesired result on the pot metal. I am lucky as I started with a set that had no pitting at all. I then taped them off and 1 coat of primer and then a couple of coats of Rust-O-Leum Satin Black.
Thanks for the feedback on the grills. I am really contemplating on the electric conversion and looking at my options as there was another person who used linear actuators that seemed to work really well.
As for the back, I am doing alright with some good pills and waiting for the MRI which who knows when that will be.
Update: As of today I have run the battery power cable from the solenoid to the trunk of the car and connected all the wires under the hood with exclusion to hooking up the wires to the headlights, horn, and marker lights. Basically trying to get it to the stage of being able to start it and move it under it’s own power as then I have all the finish body work to do before I really need to worry about hooking up lights.
Welded up some O2 sensor bungs into my long tube headers and got the sensors as well. Now I am going to heat wrap the header to help keep the engine bay and interior cool and to protect any wiring. Electric fuel pump is installed next to the gas tank and the feed line is run in the transmission tunnel next to the rear brake line. Got to get a good high pressure filter and a return line going back to the tank.
Having trouble finding a 90 degree angle drill adapter! I forgot to drill the 2 holed in the bell housing for the slave mounting bracket for the hydraulic clutch and there is no way I can get a regular drill up in there. Maybe I’ll have to pull out the Dremel with the long extension and try to make the holes that way but I will go through a couple of Dremel bits at least.
Need to also rent an axle removal tool to get the passenger side axle out so I can put the new bearings and seals in along with the Mustang Steve Cobra rear brake brackets. Anyone have an option for removing the axle?
Oh ya. Still no MRI date yet! I had a feeling maybe the doctors office forgot to book it so I called to make sure but they’d never admit it.
Got it at Lowes, and purchased it for the same reason as you, clutch slave in the bell housing holes. The problem I ran into, was finding short enough bits that would fit the hex-drive head of the 90* adapter, and fit in the space. I ended up just dropping the trans again, and pulling the bell off.
The linear actuators conversion for the headlights is cool, provided you don’t mind cutting up your buckets, etc. IIRC, he had to do quite a bit of metal mods to make them fit. But, it IS cool, the end result!
Continued success, and hope the back gets fixed up for you!
?? The axles should come right out once you unbolt the flanges. I went wit Street or Track brackets because my axle bearings were already new and the SoT brackets go on without the need to remove the bearings or flanges.
That’s exactly what I was talking about but yes I’d have to use those hex bottom style drill bits. I think I’m gonna try the dremel idea with the long extension.
And thanks Bob. I remember you telling me about the Street Or Track brackets but I wanted to redo the rear bearings anyways. Drivers side came out easy but taping the passengers side with a hammer and not moving.
Going down to Seaside, Oregon for a few days and gonna check out the car show there this weekend so it’ll have to wait till next week.
OK here’s a photo update. Sorry I haven’t done much this summer as we’ve been away at the lake on the boat and then rebuilding our rotten deck so someone didn’t fall through it! T-5 is in, hydraulic clutch setup is installed, and just need to decide on what accessory brackets to buy.
Installing electric Ford Probe headlight motor conversion that someone is selling now on Ebay with the wiring harness and relays. Looks like great quality work.
I see that you are installing the head light sections first before the rest of the front end, (fenders and such) is this a better way, or is there struggles no mater how you do it?
You can install everything and save the headlights for last. But it is much more difficult. I’m sure the headlight assemblies are being installed now so he can test the electric motors.
On mine, with EVERYTHING molded in, including the fender extensions, it’s really tricky to get to all the headlight system fasteners. Patience is key.
Man that looks good so far. Looks to be a sweet ride when you are finished. You stated that someone is selling a headlight conversion kit on eBay now. That make things real easy for people doing the conversion.
Steven
Yes once I get all the wiring complete I will unbolt them and get the body done. I am just int he mocking up stage of most of the stuff so I can test fit and sort out the bugs. Once that and all the wiring is done it will be easy to bolt back together and just plug everything to the main harness.
Actually I have installed the headlights before one one car and after on another and really didn’t have too much of a hard time either way that I could remember.
Sorry I almost forgot but here is the link to the last set he had on Ebay. The wiring harness he made for them was real top notch too.
They cost me $150 but figured it was well worth it as the cost of my time to find the headlight motors at all the wrecking yards, make the brackets, and then the wiring. I figured at $150 I saved myself money and the headache!