Progress today was to do a leakdown test. My friend had previously done a compression test and averaged 180 psi per cylinder. Today we did the leakdown test on a cold static motor that has not been run in almost 2 years.
Chuck, have you checked out your radiator yet? See if you still have your factory CJ / 4-speed radiator.
Check the numbers on the passenger side strap, they should show C8ZE-L or -L1. If so, take good care of it! They are rare and expensive.
If you decide to go with a modern replacement then either keep the original for a future owner or sell it ~ don’t just throw it away or recycle it.
WOW! I read all of the articles on cleaning the gunk from the build sheet. It works as advertised. I immersed the build sheet in the wax & grease remover for 2 minutes and here are the results (see the original one about 2 frames before this post).
Too bad that the engine in the car was cast after the car was built. I will be getting the engine and trans back from the cleaners tomorrow, maybe, and I’ll drop the oil pan and see if it looks familiar to me. I was told that the engine had been balanced and blue-printed by Iskendarian when I bought the car. I was also told it was an SCJ (turns out just CJ)
I did have the oil pan off in 1971 and noticed that the rods had the number “612” hand painted on each one. I read somewhere else, a long time ago, that this was the gram weight of each rod in a SCJ motor. I dunno. I am still finding out the real truth on this car, thanks to you guys that have all done my homework for me!
Glad to see that the method helped another owner. Has turned allot of original stained buildsheets into usable/readable documents to help with their car’s history as well as restoration.
Mine didn’t fare quite as well. It was a wadded up mess stuck to the drivers side floor pan. You couldn’t even tell it was the build sheet until I rinsed it in mineral spirits. But none of the codes are readable so it’s not worth much. I also found remnants of a build sheet taped to the drivers door behind the splash shield. Wonder if the build sheet originally had been taped to the door, and then was tossed on the floor after assembly where it got carpeted over.
Maybe you have the right radiator with a replaced strap? The ID is for a universal replacement - it was made to fit automatic but of course it could also work in a manual. Your bottom tank sure looks right.
Interesting. This is the second one like this that I’ve seen. C8ZE-S with 4-speed lower tank, dated 9AA.
Chuck, yours has a date code of 9AB (2nd week of Jan, 1969) so it is still definitely a replacement (WAAAY early for your build date). But it is quite possible that someone took two “bad” radiators and built 1 good one.