What is correct carburetor for 1970 2V cleveland.

Cougar Community Classic Cougar Community Discussion
1

Can anyone tell me what is the correct Autolite carburettor for a 1970 cougar 2V Cleveland with FMX.

Car was built 27 May 1970 at Dearborn, no A/C, but with P/S, P/D.

At present it has a 2100 Motorcraft (1.21) carburettor, with a Autolite tag being D0OF T, date being “0D 23” being 23rd of April 1970.
Distributor is D0OF 12127 U.

My guess is it should be a 2100 Autolite (1.23) D0OF L ?

I went to the WCCC site, but the carburettors listed there seem to be for the 1969 model?
I only have workshop manual for 1970 Australian Falcon with (USA) imported 2V Cleveland, it states D0OF L (carburettor) and the D0OF 12127 U (distributor) for auto cars.

Can anyone help?
Thanks
Regards Peter :slight_smile:

2

Shop manual for 1970 doesn’t list Cougar with 351C 2V. They only show 351W 2V. And I’ve always been confused by why Ford used the VIN H code for both in spite of the two being nothing alike. But the AMA spec confirms D0OF-L 2V carb and D0OF-U distributor for non-AC 351C 2V automatic Cougars.

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3

Pony Carbs book they published shows ones based on Windsor or Cleveland So for automatic with no AC 351C = DO0F-L

Of course AMA specifications were published before or near the beginning of the production year

4

There is a nice D0OF-L carburetor on eBay right now at a very decent price.

5

My AMA spec was revised in Nov 1969 which was very close to my car’s production date. Everything on my car matches the spec, but I have wondered how accurate the AMA specs remained through the production year. Seems likely that changes occurred.

6

I have a completely bone stock 351C 2V engine out of a 70 Cougar sitting on a stand in my barn. I’d love to sell you items you need cheap. 248 867-3522 Ray Bischoff

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Hey Ray, if it’s convenient some time for you to do so, would you mind snapping a picture of the partial VIN stamp on that engine? We’ve been having a discussion on another forum about where exactly to look on a 351C and it’s hard to get good pics when the engine is in the car.

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Here is the VIN stamping on my 71 Cleveland 2V before rebuild.

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9

Wow Guys! Thanks for the quick informative responses.

So I ended up purchasing the D0OF-L carburettor on eBay, going through eBay, price ended up being $263.84 USD before dollar conversion fees (including postage). Yeah! eBay is not cheap. I have been watching 2100 Autolite’s (on EBay) for some time now, they usually hover around $70-$90 USD for a rebuilder.

I found I have another book, Bill Carrolls “FOOORRD V8 PERFORMANCE GUIDE”. It lists the D0OF-L carburettor being for the 1970 351 Windsor 2V, but this does not make sense, the D0OF-L carburettor has a provision for the PCV Hose which is needed with the Cleveland.
I believe the Windsor has a spacer block under the carburettor and this is where the PCV Hose is mounted?

D0OF-9510-L

I guess I need to give some feed back to as why I was pedantic about what carburettor is needed.
It is for my 70 cougar convertible, see below. I guess you could call it a survivor, sort of. At some stage someone has done some tarted up for resale work or something, that is they re-painted it.

Unfortunately they did not mask it up prior to painting and painted everything, door latch’s, wiring, overspray everywhere, under hood felt, hood hinges, hood latch… You get the idea.

Then they painted the engine in the engine bay, top down as far as possible, then sump up as far as possible. But strangely they painted around the engine stamps and stickers, thus blending the paint in?

Then they painted the engine bay, and they just blended it around the chalk marks, stickers and wiring.
With the power steering pump they painted it silver on the top only, climb under the car and look up and you can see the original Blue.

But get past that, and the car is immaculate, I just have to fix a few minor things.
Underneath it still has it’s original green paint covered with the original sound deadener, it has the red markings on the rims etc.
The Upholstery is unmarked, dash pad has no cracks, perfect original carpet, steering wheel not cracked, under hood felt is unmarked…

You get the idea and it’s enough of me, so here is my car. I hope you like it.

Regards Peter :slight_smile:

10

Thanks mate, for the offer, but I had already committed myself to the purchase of the Autolite on eBay, before you posted. It would have been better with a private sale instead of evilbay.

I don’t think I need anything for the 2v Cleveland Cougar at the moment.
I do have a 70 mustang 2V Cleveland ram air convertible but time will tell if I need anything for that?
I also have another two 1970 Cougars, one is a eliminator and that needs everything.

My list for the Eliminator is greater than my wallet, and with evilbay charges I seriously need to pace myself.

Maybe we could do something in the future?

Peter :wink:

11

Very nice looking Cougar, and certainly worthy of it’s proper carb. Glad you snagged it! I think the book is incorrect - AMA spec and shop manual both show D0AF-F carb for 1970 351W 2V automatic w/o AC and D0AF-V with AC.

12

So that is where the Vin is?
On an Australian Cleveland, the Vin is at the front of the block near the distributor.
:smiley:

1 Like
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Thank you. :wink:

14

Made curious by this thread, I went and dug up the original carb for my '70 'vert built in late-March of '70. It’s a D0OF T with date code 9M15. The car was a 351C 2V FMX with no A/C as built.

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Interesting that two spring built 70 Cougars with same engine and without AC both had the D0OF-T carb with proper date codes for the cars. Neither 70 shop manual or AMA spec show any 1970 applications for the D0OF-T carb, but that probably doesn’t rule out it being used?

16

Curious, what is this AMA spec you keep referring to?

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Automobile Manufacturers Association spec. It’s a very detailed spec of materials, part numbers, and dimensions for a car in production. Others on here probably know more than I do about their original purpose.

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bmwhd1

Arrrrrrrrrh, bugger, are you saying I still got the wrong carburettor? Ha! well I am sticking with this one now.

But I am curious as to what is difference between the D0OF T and the D0OF L ?

Can you have a look at the base of your carburettor and tell me what the model number is, the venturi size is, and the date cast into the clock?

I have paste a picture of what I believe is how to tell what carburettor you have without a tag.

In the model number, the first integer “0” (zero) is year of decade, in this case 1970.
Second is a letter which represents the vehicle model the carburettor was first released on, in this case a Fairlane.
The “L” is the version.
So the carburettor below is a D0OF 9510 L
with a 1.23 venturi (356 cfm)
cast 3 week of June 1970.

Well, that is my guess, anyone is welcome to correct or add more.

Peter :slight_smile:

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Sorry - it took me a while to go check.

Mine is 1.23 and 00 T

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No worries, I have been doing a bit of procrastinating myself, I still haven’t ordered a carburettor kit yet.

bmwhd1,
Did you look at the cast in clock face to read date carburettor was cast?

I would like to know if the cast clock really is the date of castings, some people say it is not, would like to know what yours says.

Anyone else know what the difference is between D0OF T and D0OF L ?

Peter :slight_smile: