I am getting ready to restore my XR7G mirror that I’ll be using on my 1968 convertible project.
The remote portion is loose keeping the mirror lens from staying in position. Has anyone ever restored an XR7G mirror with this type of issue? Any advice on tightening the lens would be appreciated. Will removing the bullet shaped cone expose the control cables?
Steven
Yes. Be careful. The problem may be that the outer portion that the cable goes through may not be fastened tightly into the catches, thereby allowing the cable and it’s sleeve to move. When you get it apart you will understand what I am getting at.
Good luck with it.
Thanks Scott. If that is the case and the outer sheath of the cables are loose what holds them in position? Is it a clip or glue?
Steven
It sits in an indent that is pushed together. Just be aware that it is pot metal and can break very easily.
The outer portion of the cable has slipped in it’s indent.
I’ll look at the best way of securing it once I get it disassembled.
Steven
Yup, pretty much what I was expecting to see. I hope you can figure out a good way to fix it without the whole cable system having to be replaced. You can buy the remote cables and replace them, but it would be a lot better if you didn’t have to.
Good luck.
I had a chance today to work on getting the mirror disassembled. It took a little finesse to get the cables loose from the remote assembly. After that was done I was able to slide the cables through the adapter base and then the mirror housing.
Next step is bead blasting to remove the paint.
Steven
Be very careful bead blasting pot metal, as it can wreck it easily.
Thanks for the heads up on that Scott. I actually talked to a friend of mine that will be doing it for me. His beads are well worn to the point of being dust. He feels it will take a lot longer to get the paint off using the worn beads but it would be safer for the pot metal housing. He used the same beads when we were restoring our Fire Departments 1943 Seagrave ladder truck. There were some items that couldn’t be sanded completely and they were super rare so that’s the route he suggested and they turned out really nice with no distortion. I’ll be keeping a close eye on the mirror as it’s being done.
Steven
Often re-crimping the cables into the controller can be problematic. We are the only retailer that has them new.
I have fine glass bead i use in my blast cabinet for parts like this.
Don I didn’t realize the controller was available. That should make reassembly much easier. Thanks for posting the link to your site.
Steven
Well I’m happy to report that the bead blasting went well. The paint came off with ease and no distortion to the pot metal housing. It now has a coat of epoxy primer and next up is a fresh coat of paint.
Steven
That’s looking real good Steven!
Very nice. I’m glad that there were no problems.
Thanks guys. I really like the way it has turned out so far. I’ll be happy when I get the paint on it and get it reassembled.
Steven
Steven, those look great.
I was doing some surfing and came across your post, rather than opening a new one with the same subject, I hope I could get some advise. I’m kind of in the same spot on these. As you can see, one of the bases has a hairline crack. I know this is pot metal but is there some way there could be a spot weld on the back side to strengthen the crack and filler, sand, re-prime and paint the outside. I really don’t want to replace it.
Thanks in advance fella’s!
Todd
Todd I’m sorry I missed your post or I would have replies sooner. If it were my mirror I would not spot weld it out of fear of ruining your mirror. I’d probably use JB Weld-Metal:
It’s sandable and it’s strength should be more than enough for your repair. I hope this information helps.
Steven
Here is the XR7G mirror and the base adapter with a fresh coat of black paint.
Steven
Looking good Steven.
