Yes they work very well for that purpose, 9mm-3/8" hole. I initially tried with the razor knife but too small to cut cleanly. I used this on the gaskets for the disc brake backing plates as well.
I blacked out the dash top around the defroster vents and front speaker as well this weekend. Brushed on the areas just as it was done at the factory.
Big day today, the engine is going in later this morning. When I purchased the car few of the original engine components still existed and all of the carburetor, accessories and smog were gone. Fortunately the VIN stamped heads were there and in great condition. I was able to locate a std. bore date correct block and intake. HP engines in Norwood, NC performed the build which was relatively stock with a few upgrades to the pistons and valvetrain. I thought I would let these two spend the night together before the big day.
Spent the morning getting everything prepped for the install based on the suggestions that Royce provided. Passenger side manifold is off driver side is on and the smog tubes are installed.
The weekend ended well. The engine is in with passenger side manifold finally bolted on…I think I used every 9/16” tool in my toolbox to tighten the manifold bolts. Transmission and torque converter are bolted up along with the starter. A few more days work and it will be ready to fire.
For what it’s worth, my original heater tube across the top of the intake had been factory painted just like your thermactor tubes. The ends where they get inserted into heater hose had just a slight overspray, but were mostly bare steel.
Yes since they were installed before the engine was painted. While we’re helping the vacuum balance tube traveling down the passenger side had the rear fitting installed, the hose that connects it to the long tube (clamps in place and also the hose from the tub to the PVC as well as the PCV when the engine was painted. So for exampled the rubber hose would typically have paint on it a little or allot depending on the worker. Have seen them with light paint on the top of the PCV and others than ended about half way. Of course with the rubber exterior and flexing paint didn’t stick or hold up well over time
No worries Kerry although the demand isnt high those are very hard parts to locate as they are unique to a 68 competition suspension equipped car. Not many cars from the 60’s have the assembly line shocks today.
Progress over the last two weeks has been a little slow as work has been busy. I spent last weekend taking care of a few small items in the engine compartment; carburetor, choke tubes, fuel line etc. Now that the engine was in I installed the sway bar to finish up the front suspension. Royce had indicated that it was just in the way prior to the engine installation and for as difficult as the end links were to attach with the engine in, it would have been a bigger task with the engine out.
The steering column was now ready for installation. I have never been a fan of the 68 steering wheel, just not nearly as sporty as the 67 or 69 wheels. I decided any upgrades should be period correct so I opted for the 67 Shelby style wheel which was available as an upgrade for the Cougar from Shelby at the time. Since the standard cars also don’t have an oil pressure gauge I’m also installing a 67 Shelby under dash gauge pd with retro SW oil pressure and water temperature gauges.