No I had a '68 390 with AC and it had the optional 3.25 locking differential. And it had AC. That was the optional “higher ratio” available if you ordered AC. Locking or not was always an option that ought to have been a standard feature on a 390 or 428 in every year Cougar or Mustang.
1 Like
Royce is correct the 3.25 TL was an optional upgrade for the AC cars. Two of our 1969 428 Cougars with AC came with the optional 3.25 traction lok from the factory. Attached are the Marti Reports for both. Ironically both are Dallas DSO cars.
9F92R522542_dlxrpt.pdf (209.5 KB)
9F91Q510049_dlxrpt.pdf (207.9 KB)
Nice - way to back it up with Marti Reports. It’s unusual to see a TL, AC, and a CJ. I’ve only seen it on one car I tried to buy a few years ago. A Mustang with a ‘few’ options on it.
1 Like
Wow, Speed Control on a CJ? That must be fun when one hits resume from 10 to 15 below the current setting. Nicely optioned Mustang.
It was a neat car, it had high backs same as the Mach 1’s. But it needed restoration, unlike the OP’s beautiful blue ‘69. Looking forward to more updates on this one.
1 Like
Well, let the updates continue! When I bought the car the seller said both rear power windows didn’t work. So I took apart the diver’s side door panel, and sure enough the switches had become disconnected from the wiring due to broken J-clips that hold the switches to the plugs. Replaced and working perfectly- which cannot be said of a lot of 69 Cougar PW setups…
2 Likes
SWEET! You can also snap open those power window plugs and tighten the circular contact pins if they get loose on the switch posts. Had to do that on mine.
Your car is amazing, and so cool you got the original engine parts back! Anxious to see the new wheels/tires on it!
Quick photo of what the most recent repro tags form Kevin Marti look like. Obviously Engine and Carb tags.
Original Differential tag still with the car.
IMO…at $86K this cat was “very well bought” but a fair price so wins all around.
Just a lovely Mercury regardless. New owner should be a happy person.
I am indeed happy and working to bring the car to the next level. This includes new spark plugs, wires (old ones with wrong date codes, etc. I know this has been covered before , but this setup to do the spark plugs, without removing the valve covers or smog tubes, worked great!
Also, using a little dielectric grease in a very thin coating helped the plug slide off the spark plug socket.
1 Like
Question: installing repro Rocker panels from WCCC, and the kit includes new rocker panel clips. I also have plenty of the original rocker panel clips, but the original FoMoCo clips are smaller and do not clip into the new repros from Dynacorn.
Further, the new repro clips cannot be snapped onto the existing exposed rivets (which I would like to use) but rather have to be riveted directly into the rockers, which is going too require removing the old rivets- Ugh.
And the set included long steel predrilled strips and I have no idea what those are for. What it does not include are any instructions for how to mount these.
Anybody installed these and has some insight?
Ok, so another “repop” not quite!
I had the same issue. The long pieces are “hanger rails”. These get mounted on the car instead of the plastic clips. I used only one per side ,basically under the door where your feet would hit the cover (possibly knocking it off). You could use both, maybe cut to desired length.
Another power window solution to the plugs coming undone.
Put switches in panel, install orig backing bracket & then drop on this bracket, use the screws… TA DA!
1 Like
Ty Bill. Makes sense, but already dreading having to drill out the original clip rivets. Just wish the repops had been the same size and used the same original clips.
Great idea for the back of the master power window controls. Got all of mine working correctly and very happy to have a fully functioning and windows aligned 69 PW setup!
That would bother me too. Your car is well worth investing in a nice original set of moldings, but I’m sure its nearly impossible to find them. I did find NOS clips on ebay.
They are pretty impossible to find. Especially without any holes drilled. I have a full set of NOS clips, so that is not the issue. The issue is that the repro panels are slightly wider than the NOS clips. So you must use the repro clips, which means you have to drill out the factory rivets and use the repro clips and rivets. Which I am not too jazzed about.
What is the width difference between orig & repop?
In another post I recommended squishing the original rockers top to bottom to decrease the width allowing thew clips to snap in tighter. maybe this could work?
The repos are 3 5/8" width. The originals are 3 1/2" width. That 1/8" makes all the difference. As does the fact that the repro clips cannot slide over the current factory rivets the way the original FoMoCo clips did.
I would go with original restored rocker moldings. The expense would be great but the results would merit the expense.
Not afraid to go the extra mile with a 59K mile 428 RA XR7 vert, but: 1. WCCC has none in stock, 2. My cores have more than one hole, so likely add 250 to the almost 600 cost, and 3. They come without the painted black stripe, so add that work. Tough call, especially because the repops are actually pretty nice quality.
If I could just add the extra 1/8" to NOS clips, or mount the repop clips the existing rivets… Need to think harder.