Welding in upper cradle
cradle mount with sway bar attach point
Other side, welding and primer done…
Going to make a fiberglass hood, this hood will build the mold. Kicking around some ideas for a cowl induction hood with two scoops in front…kinda like hood we built for Ranchero. Kinda want it set back on hood…not sure yet…
We just had a huge rain storm pass, water came through windows and that’s why hood is wet…LOL It’s our winter…sorry for those in East…looks real bad out there…
Whoaaaa…all the post are back! Good job administrators…
Here are the steering column mods for erkthejerk73.
Remove the column lock shaft by removing a half inch bolt near the top of column. Rotate cover below key util you see bolt in hole.
Cut 1" off bottom of column (for better angle to R&P). Layout, cut shaft and weld in double D shaft.
Install shaft, center support bearing and lock retainer. Weld bearing to column and you’re done…not hard at all…the instructions that come with kit are very good.
Today I made and finished welding in a gas pedal mount. Totally made it up myself, it looks weird but provides a flat surface for the electronic gas pedal to bolt on. The Coyote set up is electronic, no cables.
It has to conform to firewall and floor, yet make sure the gas pedal is actually in same area as stock factory pedal. I welded nuts behind so new pedal can be an easy bolt in.
Here it’s welded to floor
Final bolted in
Today I spent my entire day off working to make a new fiberglass hood, using the factory hood to make a mold. First was to layout and mark centerline and all reference marks to make sure left and right sides will be exactly the same.
Next was to create a copy of the factory rise and hood line running front to back, so when hood is finished it will still have factory rise and lines from the nose on back.
Finished factory rise with center hood lines…will be top of hood and scoop rise.
Here you can see foam inserts to give hood a gradual rise, yet keeping original lines in center.
Here is how far I got…foam inserts are installed on all sides, including rear. A total of 1.5" rise from flat part of hood. A gradual blended rise from nose. Now it’s ready for body and putty work, rounding edges etc…Then make the mold. Recessed and countersunk hood scoops will be “plugged” from bottom later after the mold is made.
OK, so moving on decided to add a little more to hood design. Came out with runner going towards scoops, and tapered the rise in the middle.
This is the finished work on factory hood, ready to lay up the actual mold
This is the actual mold, laid up on the factory hood. This is what we will use to make hoods.
i cant beleive the chris alston chassis works rear kit requires you to cut the floor to make room for the upper bar. thats uncool!
Today I rebuilt the clock as I’m getting ready to reassemble the dash…
Out of two clocks, one runs perfectly but has a broken adjust knob. The one with good adjust knob does not run due to a broken wheel inside the clock mechanism. So I decided to convert the clock with good knob to Quartz. I got the kit from Instrument Services Inc. in Illinois, came with good instructions and is running perfectly…keeping good time.
Now I just need the reproduced lens from WCCC…
The hood looks MUCH better with the sides added. Before,without the sides, it looked like a dodge challenger scoop!
Yessss…you’re right…it did look Dodge LOL
I got the inserts made and looking forward to laying up a hood this week…
Ok, that hood is very cool! Reminds me of the '71 Mustang ram air hoods.
OK…so here’s the final rebuilt clock…It’s ready to go back into dash, keeping perfect time and looks new thanks to WCCC’s new reproduced lens!
Nice glass work on that hood!
did you cut that extra tab off or does it come off some how? what am i missing?
That tab or lever is confusing…it’s the lever to lock trans in park…you will not be using this, or keeping it.
First thing is to remove this lock shaft, go up on column and rotate cover under key until you see a small bolt looking through a dime size hole. Remove this small bolt, and remove lock shaft by pulling it down and out. Discard bolt and shaft.
At top of column, remove turn signal switch, then remove snap ring at top of steering shaft, and remove steering shaft through bottom.
I used a plumbers pipe cutter and cut off one inch from bottom of column shat tube, this gives you a better angle with Double D shafts and universal.
Lay steering shaft next to tube with Double D shafts and make your marks to cut shaft, and weld Double D shaft into steering shaft…
The folks at R&C Motorsports are available, patient and super friendly if you need help…
It gets easier friend!
Andy
So, after a lot of thinking, planning, fitting and figuring…I chose to put the computer (ECM) for the Coyote motor in the right side cowl, behind fender. It’s all weather and can get wet, but here it won’t get too wet and stay cool…they recommend putting under cowl, passenger side wiper motor. I will make a cover for connections and wiring that will route up and under inner fender.
Initial cuts, to put in a piece of sheetmetal, for a flat mount area.
Here is sheetmetal installed and welded, need to clean it up and fill some gaps…I’m not a pro…obviously…lol