Brake light switch

Hi
I converted my car from manual drums to power disc using a LEED brakes kit. In the process i bought a replacement brake light switch from NPD as I read that switches for manual brakes might not work on a power brake pedal. I installed the new one last night on my new pedal and it didnt seem to work. I will try to put the old one tonight see if it works better but in the meantime is there any advice on how to make the switch work ? To be honest I dont really understand how it’s supposed to work anyway :confused:

Replacement unit I bought :
https://www.npdlink.com/product/switch-brake-light-replacement/176414?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dbrake%252Blight%252Bswitch%26top_parent%3D210001%26year%3D

Thanks

The one you want is C9VY-13480-A

Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-1971-COUGAR-FAIRLANE-MUSTANG-TORINO-MONTEGO-LINCOLN-STOP-LIGHT-SWITCH-NORS/133149803357?hash=item1f0058c35d:g:HZoAAOxyyF5RQpgc

I got this and it still doesn’t work :weary:
I don’t understand how this switch is supposed to work. There’s no play anywhere that would allow the switch to operate.
It does turn the lights on if I rotate it but it’s never going to rotate by itself when it’s sitting snug on the pin. What am I missing here??? I don’t get the design of that thing.

E6AD4E72-65A6-4622-B59A-FA8063240DD0.jpeg

Look closely and you’ll see that the hole on the switch that slips over the pin is slightly oblong- just enough so that when you push on the brake pedal, the pin pushes the plunger part of the switch a wee bit first.

So that’s the first switch I bought, the standard sls67, on my old manual brake pedal. Pretty tight. Should I remove some material from the switch to make it work?
D75596E0-8F0B-45EC-935A-88FC72347661.jpeg

I mis-spoke, the larger hole is actually at the end of the pushrod from the brake cylinder, not the switch. Stick the pushrod on the pin (temporarily without the switch and verify that you can move the pedal a bit before the pushrod moves. The way this works is that as the pedal moves toward the firewall, the pushrod stays put for a bit and presses against the plunger part of the switch.

I see. So the plastic bushing should slide inside the hole of the pushrod? Right now everything is pretty snug.
I’ll try to remove the pushrod and enlarge the hole ? Hope I don’t have to remove everything :weary:

If you enlarge the hole it won’t work.

Since the brake switch isn’t based on whether you have manual or power brakes, there should be a stud on the brake pedal arm to attach your switch. The switch contact points don’t have to move very far to close the contacts (maybe 1/8 inch). Hopefully, you got the correct part for your Model car.

There is a difference in the switches between manual and power, the manual has stiffer springs than the one for power brakes.

I recommend an Autolite or Motorcraft part, not Scott Drake or any other non - Ford product. Results matter.

Has anyone seen an online tutorial for changing these out? Mine sticks a little and there’s a bit of a delay from brake tap to light up. Thanks in advance!

I generally agree however I have been burnt by the terrible quality of some motorcraft products. Latest being a fuel filter on the carb, the chinese made motorcraft filter was junk and didnt screw in the carb. A cheaper part from NAPA ending up fitting like a charm.

Just to say that it’s hard to pick the right part sometimes. I guess i’ll end up buying a 3rd switch then, will try motorcraft this time. lol.
Massachusetts RMV is closed for another couple of weeks so no rush, i wont be able to get it registered for another while haha.

Didnt find anything specific for that, CJ pony parts has a video on youtube that covers the booster conversion process and that talks very briefly about removing the switch. If you’re a big guy like me you will probably want to remove seat and steering wheel otherwise it’s complete misery. Just pull the pin and make sure you re-install the plastic bushing correctly, follow the picture you can find on WCCC or in my other thread :

I ordered a new switch from WCCC, and started to give it a go when I found this out. I’m planning to install driver seat extensions in the weeks ahead, so maybe I’ll do both at once. Thanks for the tip!

By Motorcraft I mean in a 1970’s box with a GT40 on the side. Current offerings by Motorcraft are just as bad as Scott Drake parts. Or auto part store Chinesium parts.


@royce Makes sense !

@Engine207 You got me curious there, what do you call driver seat extension ? Is that something to get the seat back further :open_mouth: ? I’m starting to furiously search on google, i had no idea that was something that was possible. Can you talk a bit more about that project ? Does that mean i could finally indicate a left turn ?? Right now my knee is where the blinker stalk would go :laughing:

That’s exactly what I mean.

I could use an extra couple of inches! :laughing:

That’s what she said. :laughing:
That was too easy sorry.

Joke aside, this is amazing, I need to re-upholster my seats and repaint the frame, i’ll definitely add that to the list !
Let me know how it goes !

Per the 1965-72 Lincoln Merc Car Master Parts List
67-70 w/o PB C9ZZ 13480-A (SW-863)
67-68 w/ PDiscB C9VY 13480-A (SW-862)
67-68 w/ PDrumB C9ZZ 13480-B (SW-864)
69-70 w/ PB C9ZZ 13480-B (SW-864)