Good job! I was able to use the power from the solenoid for my lights. Maybe you could tell me what adjustment is needed to make the doors open a little more?
Can’t find my instructions.
Jim
There’s two red marks meant to line up on the motor arm and motor, then you adjust your lid to sit flush while closed by turning that threaded rod. If i find my instructions, I can take a pic and PM you.
Thanks.
Working on straightening my grills. Couldn’t find anything at home depot, so i split some wood i found in a field for now. Haven’t had to drive at night lately so ill leave these in for a bit.
Thanks for reading!
NHRA approved coolant catch can. It also turns out my noise coming from my rear brakes is my axle bearings going out. Pulled a drum off to watch it spin and sure enough, there’s a wobble.
Thanks for reading and stay tuned!
Catheadlights opening at the switch!
Axle bearings pending order.
No offense meant, they open and close quickly but should they be that loud? Just curious. I have have a set I have yet to install.
Keep up the good work.
Thank you!
I’m not sure lol, they do have a very industrial KACHUNK
Pulled my axles today and my bearing has some serious meth mouth! Luckly i found some new bearings on CJ Pony Parts. My passenger side axle is marked with a junkyard stamp, interesting.
Thanks for reading, stay tuned.
The machineshop guys are so booked up around me that I have to wait to get bearings pressed. Maybe I’ll find a way to do it myself. Anyways, I’ve just been working on general cleaning up and started with the trunk today. I took out the trunk carpet and found some rust. Unfortunately, As you can see, there’s two big holes in my tank. While I need a new tank, I’m glad I found them! I loathe taking out the cabin carpet next.
Yeah, you’ll be much better off just replacing that rusty fuel tank. The inside is probably even worse, and you’ll keep plugging the fuel filter and pumping sediment into the carb. Been there, done that.
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Heyo! Just got my axle bearing pressed. I had him do the wheel huh races and the studs aswell. I also got a free gas tank! Although, the sending unit has seen better days. I’m afraid to look inside of it yet, but if i fill it with rocks and tumble it around for a few days, it should be fine!
Thanks for reading!
Felidae you are doing a lot of great work! Keep it up. I personally would install a new fuel tank. They can be had for around $125 delivered to your door. It will be worth the investment in many ways. Then the lines too. Not very expensive either & relatively easy to install. Plus you can update your smaller 1967 fuel line to the larger diameter 1968 fuel line.
Take it from a guy who tried to drive a “project” from Abliene, Tx to Milwaukee, WI. Breaking down in Ardmore, OK was not a fun experience. It took weeks to solve and many more driving miles than anticipated. Old tanks are junk.
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A small update on my axle replacement. I finally got the Differential out to check it for ball bearing. I was afraid that they’d made it into the diff but all I found was a chewed up bearing cover and a bunch of metal dust, like the bearings got obliterated. It took me two days to get off, it was really stuck on there. The differential gears aren’t sharp, and there’s no sign of damage.
I’m also embarassed to say that I need help lifting this thing back in lol. It’s friggin HEAVY!
I’ve also taken your guys’ advice and have a brand new tank and sending unit on order.
Stay tuned 
You made a good decision getting a new tank. You’ve made a lot of progress.
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If you have an oem sender I will buy it from you or trade straight across for a reproduction. I can also rebuild the original for you
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heck yeah! I’ll send you pics when i pull mine out!
I figured out how to move this thing lol. I had help putting the diff back in, we used a jack to get it up in there. Interestingly enough, there’s a yellow mark on the inside of my diff. Can anyone tell me if this is a junkyard part like my axle? And if so… could this be a different geared rear end?
Anyways i checked pretty thorougly for steel balls and didn’t find any. I filled the diff with gear oil, reassembled my brakes, and put the car on the ground while i wait for my tank and sending unit.
The underside of the car isn’t too bad, treating it will be next on my list, right after the front drums go on!
stay tuned! 
I got bored waiting for my tank and decided to play with timing.
I need some input here. My car has always previously had a sputter at idle until now, where I believe i’ve set up the timing correctly. Somebody reccomended 35 degrees of total timing.
Ported vaccume set just on the edge of vaccume (squared transfer slots)
35 degrees total (15 initial is where it lands) … And it likes it! Extremey good throttle response and drivability!
950-1000 rpm idle
Now what flipping cam is in this thing?!
I have a friend with a C code 289 and it doesn’t rumble. (maybe his timing is super retarded)
This car is a mystery (Came with Gabriel Highjackers, aftermarket glasspacks, junkyard rear end, and brand new valve springs)
Anyways, looking forward to input!
I have fabricated infinite trunk space!
I shoud’ve taken pictures of the method i used to get fuel out of the tank (high output electric fuel pump into a jerry can with the ass end lifted in the air) but my brain was cooking in the sun!
I’ve removed the whiteclaw can patched tank and the old fuel line.
@xr7g428 is this an OEM sending unit I pulled out of the tank?
Also, sorry about some of the pictures being in portrait mode, my phone doesn’t seem to remember what orientation it’s in 
Stay tuned!
