With all due respect to Bill and his suggestion, I just put a SS-750-AN on my 351C and LOVE it. Annular boosters are great along with everything else QFT does to improve the Holley basic design (4 corner idle, billet metering blocks, electric choke standard, etc.). I like mechanical secondaries (and so does my 351C) so that is what I bought. Engine runs great with it, I suspect your 428 would too.
Bill, most of all I want it original just because it feels better. Unfortunately the seller of the carburetor you linked to is just like so many other sellers on eBay blocking foreign bidders from their auctions, and I am so sick and tired of begging these sellers to let me bid on their auctions that I have decided not to anymore. Also that carburetor needs to be rebuilt, and that’s not cheap. I also have several friends who had old original carburetors rebuilt for lots of $$$$ and they did not come back much better than they were when they were shipped to be rebuilt. Do you know a good place that will do it right the first time?
Bob, what you say is pretty much the same as my friend here do. The reason I stick to the vacuum secondaries is because I like it better
Gry many international buyers have figured out that they can claim they never got the part and get out of paying for it. I KNOW this is NOT YOU! However, once burned, twice shy.
We need to find a way to get you parts as Al has suggested. The only thing expensive about rebuilding a Holley is re-bushing the main shafts. Every thing else is just putting it back together with new parts from a kit. You do have to buy two kits to get all of the parts you need for the 9510-U as it is sort of a hybrid. Mostly what Holleys require is good tuning and you can’t do that until it is on the engine. I think a lot of folks expect to take a carb out of the box, bolt it on and to have it work perfect with no adjustment. Notgoingtohappen.com
For a new carb, I do. With my somewhat odd engine combination, the BN from Box 650 Holley did not work so good but I think it would on a stock 351W or C. The QFT 750 I just bought, put it on and CRUISE!!! Sometimesitdoeshappen.com!
So you didn’t set the float levels or adjust the idle screws or anything and it ran perfect? I have never experience that. They must be dialing things in before they ship. Do you have to supply cam specs for vacuum and elevation for idle adjustment and that sort of thing. I think it is a great idea for a carb company to go to the effort to get it right, I just don’t see how it is possible without knowing a lot about the motor.
Thanks for the offer to help me out with the parts. I might take you on the word on that. Living in Norway and restoring these cars is not easy, not that I am saying it is easy in the US either, but you sure have a few advantages compared with overseas enthusiasts. I just placed a bid on a different CJ carburetor on eBay where the seller also refuse to ship outside USA and Canada, but at least he did not block for international bidders. http://www.ebay.com/itm/171057230410 I will see how far up this goes and hopefully I am able to grab it. If I win I might need some help to get it shipped to Norway
eBay is preparing to offer a service for international shipping where the seller ships to an intermediary, who then forwards and handles customs. I believe it is in beta testing right now. My understanding is that it will add around $20 US to the buyer’s bill over what sellers who do it themselves charge. I’ve also read that it will not be optional for international shipping. So - another layer of fees for eBay - but at least international buyers will be able to bid on stuff from sellers who otherwise are unwilling to ship overseas.
Float levels: perfect (as evidenced by the built in sight glasses)
Idle Screws: Ran well out of the box but I did tweak (4 of them) to get the idle AFR where I wanted it.
Electric Choke: (you didn’t ask but I’m tellin’!): perfect, have not touched it
Nope, did not speak to QFT at all about the engine combination or anything, off the shelf from a dealer. Rightly or wrongly, I do get the impression that these carbs are more set to run OOB than Holley’s are (although I think they are owned by the same conglomerate now).
Changeable air bleeds in the main body and in the metering blocks emulsion tube somethings or other, power valve restrictions and I am probably missing some more.
Try one out (and I HIGHLY recommend their annular booster carbs), I think you’ll like it!
Would this one make it more tempting? I like this better than red and silver and if I go for one of these I believe this is how I will order it except for the fuel lines where I would prefer to use the original configuration with the inlet tube on the front left and the original tube between the two float chambers. Another question is if I go this route should I go for the 735cfm or the 780cfm.
I doubt you will be able to get the original ford type of fuel distribution arrangement but since their bowls are drilled (and plugged on the DS) for fuel line on either side you might be able to make it that way using some Ford OEM parts.
Gry! Another testament to QFT’s innovations/enhancements to the Holley design. Even if it is just repeating a feature Holley provided for Ford OEM carbs, you could not do that with an off the shelf Holley to my knowledge! The stock Holley bowls are cast but not machined for it.
Candy colored anodizing or not (but alternatives available), these carbs are far superior to Holley. All aluminum, vacuum drawn main body castings, billet metering blocks and throttle plate. Did I mention the available annular boosters? Great throttle response.