FMX to T5 swap on '70 conv.

The one thing I wanted but couldn’t find when looking for a Cougar last year was a 4spd. They’re certainly out there but much harder to find, so after driving her for a year I’m going to swap out my automatic for a manual.

I’m going with the complete package from Modern Driveline which arrived in 4 big boxes :open_mouth: . T5Z and hydraulic clutch. I’m running the stock 351C 2V so no need for a big power setup. Also switching from the stock 2.75 gears to a 3.50 posi.

I’ll be starting the project this weekend and will document with lots of pictures which will be posted here.

I did this as well in my 70 Hardtop. And love it.

I’ve read a couple of good threads here and on the other site which have been very helpful. I thought it would be interesting to document the experience of trying to get a turnkey kit to see how close it comes to having everything work right out of the box.

it’s a very popular topic and one I’m interested in myself. I’ll be happy to see another well documented write up on it, especially as to whether or not the turnkey kit is worth the money as opposed to assembling your own kit.

I’m sure you could do it on your own for less money (I did it for a song on my old GTO back in the day by crawling through many a bone yard) but a) most of those places are long gone and b) ain’t nobody got time for that :wink:

The guys at MD have been fantastic to work with as I asked a million questions before ordering.

Pics to follow.

Unpacked everything to check the contents:

Oooohhhh, the eye candy!!!

You’re going to love that LF Hydro clutch…it’s buttah!

And so we begin. I spy a pumpkin that needs some new gears. Doing this first so I can get it to the shop tomorrow.

One axel was stubborn but Mr. slide hammer won that round.

Some progress: trans is in! Now working inside the car.

Currently being humiliated by the pedal hanger. It’s loose but won’t come out. Seems hung up by the capture bolts just below the front edge of the insturmenr cluster that support the steering column.

Pics to follow.

That is one heavy pig of a trans:

New bits going in. Everything went in perfectly once we figured out that it helps to leave the bell housing bolts a bit loose while sliding the T5 in.

Now work moves to the inside. Let me say that anyone that does this (or any work on the pedals) without removing the steering column is crazy or has tiny hands.

Now if I can just get that dang pedal hanger out.

Making progress. Pedals hanger out finally. Boy, if I ever meet that Ford engineer…

This bracket has to come out:

Bushing retainers out and auto brake pedal cut down to size after a good half hour with the pneumatic cut off wheel:

A friend of mine likes to say " I wish every engineer would go to hell and have to spend eternity working on what he designed".

Looks like a good swap.

Four hours of grinding and painting later the pedals are looking much better.

The Scott Drake roller bearings were not plug-n-play in my pedal hanger but I think that’s mostly due to the hole on one side getting bent somehow. They’re in now but it took some doing.

Good progress today. Clutch master cylinder is in and pedals in place.

This was far and away the scariest part of this project for me since you get only one chance to cut a 1 3/8" hole in your firewall. Overall it came out fine. In retrospect I’d have moved it 1/4" lower and inboard as it slightly interferes with my fuse box on the inside. I’m going to have to reposition the box which isn’t trivial.

Home stretch now as soon as the new brake booster and rebuilt 3rd member arrive all that will remain is fitting a new driveshaft.

Starting the master install:

The holes:

The master cylinder mounted:

Proper number of pedals:

This pic doesn’t look much different but represents another 6 hrs labor. Pedals in and adjusted. Clutch bled. New brake booster mounted. Shifter in. Now all that remains is pumpkin and driveshaft plus dash and cleanup.

Hmm. Fresh pumpkin.

Looks good. My brothers in the middle of a t56 swap but it looks like yours is progressi g a lot smoother

Almost done now. Just need a driveshaft.

Looking good. If you ever do this again, use a saws all to trim the peddle and then file or grind the edge smooth It only took me about 10 minutes to do mine.