After sleeping on it, I’m going to use the Edlebrock Performer intake LB 3514-V that I have here instead of the cast iron intake. After reading through the posts, it looks like I have purchased the right gasket set for the job FelPro MS 96012. Will post later.
Thanks SalD
The Eddy is certainly a better intake and has more rise.
After going with the aluminum Edelbrock, I couldn’t just use the FORD blue painted bolts, so I went to the hardware and purchased stainless here is the end result.
I still need to stick the distributor and set timing
SalD Cougar GEEK
“… and get rid of that glass fuel filter once I get it all dialed in.”
My thought as well. You don’t want to go up in flames.
Flames are cool only when painted…real flames …not so good
Steven
“… and get rid of that glass fuel filter once > I > get it all dialed in.”
My thought as well. You don’t want to go up in flames.
Flames are cool only when painted…real flames …not so good!>
Steven
Thanks, I’ll put a metal filter in-between the gas tank and the metal line before it turns up the rocker. It’s amazing how much trash that filter has caught already and it’s ran less than an hour. The gas tank and line was stored inside after being flushed and cleaned.
SalD
Received a box from the Chrome Wizard “Bubba” Friday without even a note. Looks like a box of parts that were not chromed and my door handles were in it. I don’t know why these were not chromed but someone took a huge gouge out of one.
It looks like I need a pair of door handles if someone has a pair that are not in too bad condition.
SalD Cougar GEEK
Sal,
Go to http://www.dearbornclassics.com and order 63-10430, 63-10431, 2) 63-10435 and 63-10455 to make up a full kit including gaskets, $136.75 plus shipping. Made from original Ford tooling and nice. I have them on my car.
Bob
Thanks Bob
Uncle Fundzalow would approve. 
I have finished the intake but still have not been able to get the car started. My problem at the moment is time. I hate it when work gets in the way of what I really want to do! LOL The wife also shut me down over the weekend wanting some quality time, you know, hang a mirror, change out a light fixture, fix a nice meal. All and all a nice weekend and I was able to complete the front trim and back gass light. Not a factory installation and I did not highlight any of the trim in black or grey. Aluminum is just polished and light grills are highlighted in silver only to hide where the chrome guy fell short. What do you think? Go ahead, lay it on me, I’ve got broad shoulders, I can take it. SalD Cougar GEEK
I’d say the headlights look pretty good, based on the pics…almost have a “brushed” steel look to them…
Personally, I like the blacked out parts of the trim blacked out, it makes the chrome ribs stand out more. When I see the headlight doors, I see three groups of four round something-or-others that I assume are associated with the door fastening or the door castings or? (Obviously) those would be hidden if the black inlay was there.
Same comment for the taillight bezels. My chrome in the recesses of the taillight bezels was/is not perfect either, the chrome guy could not get in there and/or fix the pitting there. The black (again) minimizes these sorts of flaws.
On the gas door, is it just the photo or does the door sit a little low compared to the lights on either side? These never fit “great”, I am not 100% satisfied with how mine fits either, but wondering if the door needs to be lifted to the up extreme in its mounting holes in the rear apron to better line up? Maybe you already did this.
My final word is that you should do what you like and what makes you happy. I am enjoying the ride along with you, so thanks for taking us along!
Almost forgot my tire wheel and cap choice.
My trunk trim was lost in the shuffle and I also thought that the gas light cover was mounted too low but it is as high as I can get it. Another strange thing is that the mounting holes in the back body panel are square and I could not find anything to fill the space with. The studs in the hinge plate are round, I used a rubber spacer and a washer to separate the mounting plate from the body. I checked out the gas light on the green 70 and is also is a little bit low, I will reassess when I have time.
SalD Cougar GEEK
I had a friend over yesterday and after a few squirts (many squirts) of starter fluid, she started up. The manifold was not sucking air but we still could not get the carburetor idle properly. After what seems like an afternoon ,I stuck my finger in the outlet in the back of the carburetor that supports the vacuum for the head light pod and vacuum tree and the idle came down. The car killed before we could set the idle properly and would not start after. My friend had to run and the battery was weak, so I put my tools away and took the wife out to eat. Also, against my better judgement, I installed the rubber gaskets at both ends of the intake manifold and the rear gasket has squished out and is leaking oil. Looks like I get to change the intake gasket again. I didn’t notice this until the end of the evening, could this gasket be sucking air or is it just to keep oil from leaking out of the intake manifold?
SalD Cougar GEEK
Sal,
Yes, the holes in the trunk panel for the gas door are square, not sure why, but they are. Now, you don’t space them or anything like that, you just use a pair of the same flanged nuts like are used to mount the taillights. Removing the spacer/washers probably won’t completely fix the alignment issue, but it should help I would think.
On the manifold end seals, no, nothing to do with vacuum (but I did try valiantly to warn you about using them!).
Bob
Bob, thanks on both items. I’ve had those rubber gaskets squish out before but was persuaded by my buddy to use a hole punch to tap holes into the manifold and block. This added abrasion would keep the gasket in place. I tried it and it obviously doesn’t work for me.
AAARRRUG!!! {red faced and shameful} Should have listened to BOB.
SalD
Hi Sal,
Yep, I have heard of/seen end seal mating surfaces punched or cross-hatched or whatever before in an attempt to make them more able to retain the seals. I have had one pop out in the car and I squished RTV in its place in the car, but it was “iffy” at best. The other thing I would say is that if one does use them (which again, I won’t do again), I prefer the cork ones over the rubber, they are more compressible and conform (permanantly) unlike rubber.
As for feeling badly over it, it has happened to most of us so I wouldn’t beat yourself up too badly or more than you already have. I always try to tell myself that sh!t happens and eventually the memory of having had to do something two or more times will fade…
Regards,
Bob