Ya, the punch marks work with cork, the rubber is not good. These companies that put out the gasket kits should know that this does not work, It only degrades the quality of the product they sell.
One thing Bob, I would have thought the lifter valley would have been subject to crank case ventilation, there is now separation, it’s all a part of the internal system. I know on these cars, if you pull the dip stick out when it is running, there is no problem, but with some cars, the crank case ventilation is sealed and if you pull the dip stick out on them, the car will stop running. Your thoughts?
I have never heard of any engine that had a sealed crankcase (except maybe a 2 stroke engine which draws intake charge through it’s crankcase), or one that will quit running if you pull the dipstick, but maybe I am not up on this or something? Can you link to an example, wiki or something?
My understanding/the fact is about our cars is they have a flow through crankcase ventilation system, with the breather on one side and the PCV on the other. An open valley end seal would just be another vent. The PCV draws crankcase vapors into the intake with a check valve of sorts, I admit I never really understood exactly how the valve works but it prevents the valve from looking like a giant vacuum leak to the engine (which is why you can pull the PCV from the valve cover of a running engine and the way the engine runs will not change). In order for the PCV to pull those vapors in, there needs to be a vent allowing air in to displace what is being pulled out by the PCV. If the vent wasn’t there, the PCV could only pull in the (hopefully small) amount of blow-by gases which get by the piston rings.
So that’s what I got on the subject, whatchu got brother?
Not trying to get too far off subject, but I have the cork end gaskets on my intake. I am having trouble getting my rings to seat, so am having a lot of crankcase pressure build up, and they havent popped out. I used the grey gasket sealer on both sides, and no leaks (love that stuff). I know I am getting too much crankcase pressure because the oil reeks of fuel, and if I pull it over 6K, it will push the dipstick out a little and splatter the passenger side of the windsheild with oil.
The Intake manifold will be put on the back burner for the time. Yesterday, my buddy came over and diagnosed my motor problems, so far we have determined that:
there are no manifold vacuum leaks
my remanufactured carburetor, 4330 autolite is running too lean to support the motor, solution was to pick up a new edelbrock 600.
my remanufactured motor craft distributor from CARQUEST purchased in 11/2010 is also shot. Top bearing, bushing, sleve what ever
it is shot. Will try to get my $$$ back but now I am shopping distributors.
Mallory, MSD, Petronex,accel . I just need something that is dependable and will solve my problem. This motor is a h code 1970 2v with now a 4 barrel edelbrock. It was bored .30 over and has been rebuilt to factory specs except of course hardened seals newer valves,etc.
What would you suggest keeping in mind that my uncle Fundzalow is still in town and probably will be staying with us for a while.
SalD Cougar Geek
I am familiar with MSD since that is the distributor on the green standard. I did have one go out and had to buy a remanufactured MSD but it has worked well for me. My GM buddies are suggesting ACCEl since they are designed after the gm distributors,
Allow me to make a shameless plug for a BNIB Procomp GM style HEI distributor PC-8000 I bought but never ended up using. I am interested in selling it.
Bob, the carb was from a 1971 4V and should have worked. I set the distributor this morning and it started right up. Just got finished changing plugs, cap, rotor, and wires and she runs fine now. It was a remanufactured Carquest distributor and the warrantied it for me, I’m pointing the finger at the distributor. Running late for work, I’ll post later. SalD Cougar Geek Thanks for all the input.
I installed the tremic 5 speed correctly but the bearing slipped out of the clutch fork when I installed it. 2 days later clutch works correctly. Today I spent my time installing the door handles, locks and gluing weather stripping around the doors. Tomorrow I will install the stereo and dash gauges along with a few more pieces of trim. Monday I have a guy coming over to install the windshield and he will show me how to install the cowl “I can’t figure it out” and hopefully the windshield trim if I can’t figure that out by then. Convertible top install next, then I can finally wash the sweat, blood, tears, grease, and probably spit off of it, and then install the interior. It sounds sooo simple.
I hate to bum you out, but the door whiskers (and stainless if it’s an XR7) are pretty hard/impossible? to install with the glass installed in the doors.
Assume the repro door handles met your expectations?
Hey Bob, It’s just a standard convertible. It’s a pretty rare vert because the only factory option was power steering. No XR7, power anything, and deluxe comfort weave interior. The whiskers were taken out with the windows in so I’m hoping that I can sneak them back in with the windows in a down position. The door handles are great and I would have never thought that repops were the answer.
I just remove the lower stop and bring the window down below the edge of the door where the whiskers go. I think it’s near impossible to get the window in with the whiskers on but maybe that’s just been my experience.
Guys, I just rolled the window down and lined the whisker strip up with the clips. I had to pull the window toward the inside of the door a bit and once it was lined up just started working the clips into the slot. Set my screw on each door at the end and perfect! The problem that I had was that the two back window strips did not line up with the clips. The whiskers set came with the car when I purchased it and came from John’s Classic Cougars. I just took the clips off and drilled a hole in the front and slid a clip fastener over the back clip hole and screwed the back whiskers in. Sal
I was so excited to get the windshield in today and have the trim installed along with the cowl that I forgot to take pictures before I brought it to install the convertible top . Sorry guys, I’ll catch up when I get it back. Sal Cougar GEEK
Has anyone used this before? I have applied a coat over the entire floor pan and fire wall. I wish the restorer would have suggested doing the fire wall before we installed AC unit, gas pedal, brake clutch assembly etc. It was a pain applying small pieces on my back and locating areas that were missed. I am concerned about it stoping the heat and have enough to apply a second coat at least along the front floor pan.
I am going to install dash and stereo next before finishing out the interior.
