With the disassembly finished the aluminum pieces can be bead blasted and the steel parts can be cleaned in the parts washer.
All these parts go in the trash.
The AMK kit comes with a lot of new stuff - but no instructions.
With the parts clean it is time for reassembly.
The check valves have to be assembled - a main cap, spring, and the rubber flap are assembled.
Then they can be carefully installed using a small hammer and the same 1/8" pin punch that was used to remove the old check valves.
This is how the valve body looks with all the valves installed. The shaft is just flush with the surface of the body. Itâs possible to drive them in too far - the pump doesnât work then.
The new gasket is installed between the inlet housing and the valve body. The opening goes over the two check valves for the inlet.
Then the cap is placed on the valve body so that the two screws can be installed.
This is how the inside looks with the screws installed.
The new diaphragm assembly gets greased before it is shoved in the pump body.
You have to collapse the spring, then the arm can be inserted. The axle pin gets greased and inserted next. You have to wiggle the arm a bit until it aligns and slips in.
The pin goes in until it is flush, then a pin punch is used to make sure it is all the way in.
A 5/16" punch is used with a small hammer to install a new aluminum axle retainer plug. The pump body is secured in the vice for this step.
Next the spring retainer is inserted.
Then the hardest part of this whole job - reinstalling the spring without it shooting across the shop, never to be found again. Fortunately it snapped right in place.
At this point you can install the new #10 - 32 screws from the kit. Be sure to align the fittings as they were when you took it apart.
With the damper on the #1 TDC of the compression stroke the fuel pump can be inserted easily and bolted on with a new gasket.
Wow! Great walk through of the pump rebuild!
You should put all that into a separate post in the Maintenance and Repair section.
Hopefully some time in the future it can be found using the search feature and keywords like fuel pump rebuild.
Great procedure and pics thanks for posting it Royce.
Thats a complete ATSOTC tech article.
Got word today that the paint would be complete on Monday so I get to pick it up!
Had to remove the engine pan to fill and block some defects. The rebuilt engine looks great inside. The date code on the block is typical of 427 GT-Eâs but would be considered not typical for cars Ford built with more common power plants.
Notice the properly installed rear main cap seals with nails installed.
Note the locks on the new oil pickup - good practice.
This is what the oil pan looked like yesterday morning. After that I block sanded it wet with #320 to smooth the rage gold filler, then primed it a last time with primer - surfacer. I block sanded it a final time with #400 wet and then after drying and cleaning it got itâs final coat of Ford Corporate Dark Blue before being installed.
These things need lots of patience after 50+ years.
Picked the car up at the paint shop today. Itâs amazing the transformation that they did on the 12 year old paint job. It had defects in the clear from shrinkage, a bug that landed on the trunk lid, masking tape left on the door and front fender gaps for years, etc. Most of what they had to do was a matter of block sanding and buffing. In a few places they had to touch up problems like the underside of the hood where the scoop nuts were apparently tightened with the aid of a 1/2" drive air impact wrench.
Well you wouldnât want that hood scoop to work loose now would you?
I love that color. It might be my new favorite â68 Cougar color.
The computer doesnât do justice to the color. Itâs off. The car looks so much better in person.
That attention to detail is amazing!
Yes! Color code D, aka Acapulco Blue on the Ford side.
Thanks Jaymo - it ought to get a lot better from here.
Today members of the MACC came over and helped unload the car and push it out of the trailer into my shop. Still drooling.
Just baby steps right now, trying to install stuff that is taking up space and that wonât impede progress. Still waiting on a lot of essentials for the firewall that will keep me from doing much.
The rubber fillers for the end of the rear quarter panels and the front fenders were in nice condition except for their aged look and some blue overspray on some of the parts. Iâve found that bead blasting them with fine glass bead and then wiping the parts down with wax and grease remover makes them look new.
This is what I started with:
