Who wants to play “Is this Straight”?
I find it fun collecting parts to make a whole “kit” for a project, don’t you? Nice work Adam!
Same parts as I used on my racer. You may need to grind (or mill) the ridge on the outboard side of the caliper.
I got a “Forbidden” error when I clicked on your link, but I know what you’re talking about. I mocked everything up yesterday. To my disappointment, it looks like I would have to do more than that if I want these brakes to work with my wheels. The backside of the wheel has a lip that gives it a spoke profile more like a 14" wheel.
I used the old brake pads and a wood wedge to center the caliper on the rotor. I taped some washers to the inside of the caliper to put the pads in the correct position.
That looks like too much material to remove to me.
Now I have to decide which ones I like better; the brakes or the wheels. It would be a lot cheaper to just drop the idea and go with '67 Cougar discs, but what fun would that be.
Maybe you guys can help me decide. Any interested in a lightly used set of 15X7 stamped steel wheels with black pies? I may have ten miles on them.
My Techshop membership has expired and I’m not going to renew it right away. Here’s the last of the powder coating.
Those look like Torino motor mounts. Have you tried them yet?
Those are Prothane motor mounts. I’m not sure which Ford motor mounts on which they were based, but you are probably right.
Yes, I’ve used them and I like them a lot. In order to install them, I had to use the '68 frame brackets with the locator tabs removed shown in the picture.
I think I see the motor mount you mentioned (Anchor 2370). According to Anchor, it is used on the right side on the following models.
FORD GRAN TORINO (1972 - 1976)
FORD LTD II (1977 - 1979)
FORD RANCHERO (1972 - 1979)
FORD TORINO (1972 - 1976)
MERCURY COUGAR (1973 - 1979)
MERCURY MONTEGO (1971 - 1974)
Prothane could have used the outer shell, but the construction of the center portion is different. I have no clue if they would work. There maybe slight differences.
By the way, the fit guide looks a little funny. Why would it fit the 1973 Cougar and not the 1973 Mustang? Why would it fit the 1974-1979 Cougar and not the 1974-1979 Thunderbird?
Maybe it is just a fetish of mine, but I love detailed parts and shiny fasteners! Love the stuff Adam and the design of those mounts appeals to me as well, because they will self-limit once the compressible part of the mount reaches its limit. On my car, I use Moroso mounts which are “regular” mounts bolted through with flat head allen screws and locking nuts.
Anyway, good stuff man and sorry to see your membership expire, piece parts prepped the way you have, taken to the Nth degree (meaning every last thing you can do this with) equals a stunning car in the end, my $.02.
Regards,
Bob
Thanks again, Bob. When I dropped in my 351W, I ripped two driver side mounts right away. I put in a turnbuckle between the head and the swaybar mount to preserve the third. The turnbuckle made it way too stiff and the car would rock with the cam at idle (Comp 280H). Unfortunately, when I installed it in 1999, I didn’t have any other cheap and easy option. I really like the new mounts for the limited time I had it running before I started tearing everything apart.
I don’t mind letting the membership expire. They were running a holiday special: $50 for one month membership and two classes. I got to take a powder coating class, a TIG welding class and powder coat just about everything I could for $50! In fact, I practically ran out of stuff to powder coat.
The real reason I did not renew my membership is because I’m trying to defend my dissertation by June. My updates will slow down quite a bit until I graduate.
I picked up an angle grinder for $10 with a coupon and a twisted wire cup and got to work stripping my radiator support. My car didn’t come with a buck tag, but I found some interesting grease pen marks. Any help deciphering them would be appreciated.
5A? = Date code? According to the Marti report, the order was received on 1/6/1967.
X = Metallic Maroon paint code
2D = Red Interior
?202. No idea about this one.
Factory Air?
60?
I also welded up a crack in my passenger side shock tower. It’s not my best work, but not bad for a tight spot.
I’ll finish it off when I pull front suspension apart… again. Anyway, I’m still learning.
Adam, the 202 or 60 might be the line rotation number. Marti’s does make buck tags. Here’s a link to buck tags:http://www.martiauto.com/itemselection.cfm?item=TAGB-65&selectid=yes. John
Thanks, John. My Marti Report does not list a Bucked date. Does that mean it never came with a buck tag?
That’s a good question Adam. I don’t know. You might try contacting Marti Auto Works or checking there FAQ. John
Your Cougar was built at Dearborn, so yes it should of had a buck tag. the 60 is the area where a rotation number is written going down the line and should match the buck tag. I’ve found various other number wrote on the core support and never figured out what they meant.
I sent the guys at Marti Auto Works an email about it. It is interesting to me, but since I’m not going the concours route, I can find a better use for the money.
I’ve been stripping and straightening engine bay and I decided to take care of some spotty collision repair. They used a sheet metal screw to attach the fender to the fender apron.
In these pictures you can also see some pitting from a leaky battery, but no holes. Once I paint the engine bay with POR-15, it should be fine. I also welded up a few holes in the shock tower where I had my MSD 6A box mounted.
Here’s the “bodywork” they did on the fender.
I’ll probably end up replacing this one. The driver side fender is pushed in a little, but I think I can repair that one.
Let me be sure to say “good luck” to you on that. If I could do anything I wanted, I’d be doing what you’re doing. But, I’m pretty sure I’m not as smart as you, though I do love Physics like grits and gravy. 