The Snowball Saga - '68 Standard Revitalization Project

Thanks guys! It helps to just focus on one or two specific projects at a time, and over time you accomplish a lot. I’m still intimidated by how much is left to do, but then I look at what’s been completed and it’s a good reminder that this is all possible.

Speaking of bite-sized projects, my latest undertaking was to refurbish the shifter. It was pretty easy but satisfying. Some “before” shots:

And here it is all taken apart:

Then basically I just cleaned everything as best I could with wire or nylon brushes, degreaser, steel wool, rags etc., media blasted the “bucket” and the selector arm, painted them with “cast aluminum” VHT exhaust paint (masked around the non-removable plastic sleeve, as well as the rotating shaft that connects to the shift lever), replaced the plastic bushings, lubricated moving parts with white lithium grease, put it all back together, and…

(That’s the original rubber plug, just had to clean it up. If yours is shot you can get a new one here.)

Then finally I installed it in the car with a new gasket under the bucket, and hooked it up to the shift rod. This took a little trial-and-error to find the right place in the slot. I ended up putting the trans and shifter in 2nd gear to line things up because it seemed like a good “middle area” without much play in the shift rod.

And that’s pretty much all I have for an update right now! Next on this list is topping off the trans fluid, and more importantly, finish hooking up the brakes and put some fluid in there, bleed them, etc,. so that I can actually move the car from one place to another under its own power. Also need to get power steering lines and do the big block routing, then throw some fluid in there and put the belt on. Can’t forget to grease the front suspension / steering components too. Also, the valves need some additional adjusting & fine tuning. Slightly further down the road, I need to assemble the entire A/C system, from under the hood to under the dash and everywhere in between. That will be a chore. Anyway, I’m starting to ramble… focus on one thing at a time, one thing at a time, one thing at a time…

As always Andrew I enjoy seeing your progress. I will be using your pictures as a guide when I do the shifter in Top Cat because it’s loose and needs a rebuild.
Steven

Very nice.

Good work, keep plugging away!!

Cheers! I should also mention this about the nut that secures the chrome shift lever to the smaller arm - you have to get the tension just right, so that it’s firm and doesn’t wobble, but not so tight that you can’t move the shifter easily. I found that I could make final adjustments in the car with an open end wrench. For some reason it’s not a jam nut on mine, but I think some of them were, which would make more sense.

So Steven, you could always try to tighten that nut a little and see if it improves your shifter feel for now, before you take it out and rebuild it. Surprisingly, mine was still nice and tight before I rebuilt it, so I probably didn’t even need to replace the bushings, but “while I’m in there…”

^ This! So hard to do sometimes. “Well, I have an hour before dinner, so what can I do that won’t get me too nasty-dirty… I think I’ll remove the tiecost! I can get that done in an hour” Next thing you know you have 18 projects laying on your work bench waiting to be finished :-/

Keep on pluggin’ away, Andy, it’s looking great!

A tiecost? So I am supposed to ask “What’s a tiecost?”, right? (In my best GWB Sr. voice) “Not gunna do it…”

P.S. Andrew, I’ll have to comment on your progress later, cannot see the pics from here for some reason. Must not be Photobucket.

Looks like a Boss 302 intake in the background…

Last night, I reached another very cool milestone: driving the car under its own power. The last time I was able to do this was in late 2011 if I remember right. Having finished hooking up the brakes and bleeding the system, and topping off the transmission fluid, and adjusting the valves again, I fired her up and reversed out of the shop, then drove back and forth in the driveway a couple times. I’m happy to report that the power disc brakes work very well! Something is dragging though, since the car didn’t roll freely in reverse. It does run smoother now after adjusting the valves. The only thing that needs work is the choke, but I need to hook up the heat tube. I have to thank Darrell again for sticking around after work to help me get it going. I could hardly believe it when I was sitting there on the metal floor, driving my car under its own power. So cool!

And luckily, Darrell grabbed a camera and filmed some clips for posterity. The thing you hear dragging under the car is the handbrake cable, which I haven’t fully hooked up yet.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tdPdwMUJERQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tdPdwMUJERQ

I’m very stoked about that.

But now I need to go harass the painter guy. The following parts have still not been painted:

-Hood
-Fenders
-Trunk lid
-Both valances
-Stone deflector
-All 4 fender & quarter extensions
-Glove box door & ash tray door
-Trunk hinges & rods

And here you thought I got the car painted quickly without hassle. Not all of it… the saga continues!

OUTSTANDING!!!

EXCELLENT! That had to be music to your ears. (With handbrake cable accompaniment)

Andrew thanks for the tip on tightening the nut. It seems to have worked fine. All I have to do now is polish the chrome and get a new shifter handle.
Steven

Time for an update! Nothing monumental, but a few interesting things to report on.

First of all, I finally installed the export brace. Luckily I didn’t have to struggle too much to line it up. I first installed both ends through the carriage bolts on the shock towers, which went fairly smoothly since the bolts can slide around a little, then I had to use a round pry bar through the holes at the cowl side to scootch the whole thing over a bit (maybe 1/4") and start the new bolts & nuts there. Then I installed my shock tower caps, which are the original ones, repainted, with new nuts and bolts for the shocks. Some pics:

Hmm now does something else look different on top of the engine? Yep, I changed the carburetor. What I had before was a generic remanufactured 2100 (later Motorcraft style) with 1.08 venturis. It had a leak from the accelerator pump due to a stripped bolt hole, and it always had hesitation problems. Anyway, some of you saw the other thread I started asking about my options. I ended up refurbishing an original 1968 Autolite 2100 C8OF-K carb, which has 1.23 venturis and is designed for a 390-2V. The difference in rated CFM is 356 vs. 287. I hadn’t ever rebuilt a carb before this point, so I did some research and learned a lot in the process. Carbs are finicky creatures with lots of variables. Luckily these 2 barrels are pretty simple, but it still took me a few hours to clean it all up, use new parts from the rebuild kit, and exchange a couple parts from my other carb and get it all dialed in. Some trial and error to get everything right with the linkages and choke and stuff. I still need to do some final adjusting but I’m happy to report that it’s on the car, and it seems to run better than it did before. Seems like an improvement for sure.

Mid - rebuild… wish I would have taken a few more with everything apart, but I tend to not stop to take pics when I’m in the thick of it.

I think I may need to replace the dashpot, it seems a little sticky. Might just need adjusting. Anyway, some more pics on the car.

I do need to replace the little rubber cap for the fuel bowl vent. The “HYGRADE” rebuild kit did come with one, but it broke when I tried to pull it through the hole on the metal arm. Luckily I found a source for a replacement here. Also ordered a brass float while I was at it.

Next order of business, I now have functional power steering! It feels nice, I gotta say, after muscling the car around all this time. However, nothing goes simply, and I had to take the pump out ~ 3 times before I got it right. But here’s the breakdown.
I decided to use the big block hose routing, to avoid the stupid-looking loop by the shock tower, as seen here:

So, I got the appropriate bracket and mounted it to the car. The holes needed to be drilled, which was tricky with the oil pan and everything in the way, but I figured out a way. Also got this hose kit. Check it out. (Note: the 2 short lines are old-stock Canadian made Omega brand hoses that I found.)

However, once I went to hook up the return line to the PS pump, I realized I had overlooked one important detail. The “neck” that comes out of the PS reservoir comes out straight on a 67-68 small bock. That meant that with my modified routing, the return hose would have to connect like this:

I didn’t like that very much. So, I had to remove the pump from the car, take off the reservoir can, and replace it with one of these (69 small block) which has the 90-degree downward elbow I needed. Here’s a comparison after I cleaned up & painted the replacement reservoir.

That did the trick. One other thing I’d like to suggest is to get this seal kit if you’re going to mess with your pump / reservoir. After reinstalling it the first time and adding fluid, it leaked quite badly from around the reservoir. I had to drain and remove the whole thing again just to replace the large o-ring and other seals I could access easily (there are several that I didn’t replace just because I didn’t want to delve too deeply into the inner workings of the pump. It’s a remanufactured unit, though I’m not sure how old it is). That solved the leak. But it was a little frustrating to have to to remove / dismantle / reinstall / multiple times.

Anyway, once everything was back in the car, all I had to do was shorten the return hose a tad, and then everything fit nicely.

Overall I’m happy with this routing. It’s straightforward and less cluttered / awkward than the original way. The only thing that seems weird is how the hoses all have tight bends near the metal fittings. Seems like they should have been designed to arc more smoothly.

Anyway, that’s all for now!

Nice work.
Like the big block hoses routing, more than once I’ve had a cooked return hose split and spray ps fluid on a hot manifold. Luckily there was no fire just lots of smoke.
Recommended modification for anyone with a 67-8 289-302.

Thanks for posting your progress Andrew. I hear you about having to do things over and over to get things right! How far do you think you are from being able to drive the car?

Technically I can drive it right now… but not legally or safely :buck:
It depends on several factors, but I’m hoping it will be more or less finished by the end of this summer, or at least before the end of the year. There’s going to be a lot of late nights until then.

That looks too clean to drive, I think you’ve created the first 68 Standard trailer queen.

The big block hose routing was a really good idea. Here’s what you could have looked forward to with the original routing.

Fortunately it was just soot from a really quick PS fluid fire, there was no damage.

Gah!! Just doing a quick search here to try and find some good photos of the difference between the small block and big block routing, since I’m finally doing my PS system rebuild and I bought the big block hoses a couple years back like everyone told me to. That’s a bummer to learn that the reman pump+reservoir I just bought is gonna have to get shipped back because it doesn’t work with the big block hoses with that neck issue.

So with the big block hose kit, which I got from y’all, I will also need to swap the pump for a 69 small block version, and buy that bracket/retainer you linked that’s required for the different routing? I have the existing retainer that’s on there now for the small block setup, that doesn’t work in the big block location because of the mounting bolt needing to be angled, have I understood this all correctly?

Looks great, and thanks for documenting this in a way that will be helpful for the rest of us trying to go the same route. This definitely seems like a solid candidate for a WCCC instructional video, it being an upgrade that seems to be almost universally recommended around these parts.

I used a tubing bender and was successful in bending the stock outlet down enough to make it work, not as far as the '69 version. BE CAREFUL if you try this as it is easy to break it away from the back of the pump and to crush it. Easy does it!

Wow, it’s been almost 7 months since my last update. I’ve been meaning to post some stuff for a while, but overall this summer I barely touched the car. I think I hit the “slow slump” stage or something. I could blame life distractions or any number of things, but I think the simple answer is that I got burned out and let my motivation slip. It’s hard to stick with it after a few years go by, and I’m that much more impressed watching some of you guys relentlessly hammer away on your projects. That being said, here’s something cool I did back in June this year.

First off, I had to throw down some insulation in the trunk. I got this kit that has all the pieces for the whole car (note to self, take new pictures for that product). Pretty nice thick stuff, though most of the thickness is the is fluffy “jute” portion and not the tar backing.

I did have to do some trimming to get everything to fit just right.

I used a smidge of spray trim adhesive here and there to keep things in place. Also I should note that I installed the repro trunk filler boards before this.

Also hiding under there is my old mechanical sequential box. Not original to the car since it says “Motorcraft” on it and has a couple spliced wires. It seems to work fine though so I just put it back in. Maybe someday I will upgrade to the solid state box.

Then I got to throw in a new trunk mat, and of course I opted for the premium version. It’s really nice. I put the spare tire J-bolt in place and threw the jack in there. Still contemplating whether I should strip and repaint the jack or just leave the patina the way it is.

Now it’s on to the cool stuff. I had been looking forward to restoring the taillights for a while, since they’re such an iconic part of the car. I started by sandblasting the front sides of the housings, leaving the rear sides alone since they were in good shape and still had the galvanized plating or whatever it is that preserves them. Then I masked around the outsides and painted the inner areas gloss white. They were originally a shiny silver, but I decided to try gloss white to give the lights a nice even glow. The thinking here is that white will actually reflect more light than silver. Then of course I had to reverse mask and do the outsides in SEM Trim Black (great stuff).

Then I went ahead and replaced the seals on both of them with this kit. It’s great that all this stuff is reproduced (sometimes I’m still impressed how much is available for Cougars, especially after restoring an Opel). I used weatherstrip adhesive to stick them on.

Also, when taking the old seals off, I noticed that there were some little rings around the threaded studs. I substituted some new generic o-rings to replace them. Whether or not this is actually necessary, I have no idea.

Test fit just for fun:

Now the real fun begins: the chrome bars. My originals were pretty pitted, and rechroming wasn’t in the budget. Luckily I happen to work at a place that has hundreds of good used bezels, so I dug through the pile and found some pretty nice ones. Stripping off the old paint was an adventure / chore that took some trial and error. Easy Off oven cleaner turned out to be the best stripper. If you do this, make sure to do it outdoors and wear gloves. This stuff is gnarly, avoid breathing the vapors. Anyway I let it sit for a while (~20 min) and then used various nylon brushes to get the old paint off. Then a good bath in water, some steel wool, etc. I had to do this process about 3 times to get all the nooks and crannies stripped. Eventually, both bezels looked like this:

Once I got the bezels as clean as possible, I painted over them with no masking, again with SEM Trim Black.

Now it’s time for the tedious part… I used an old t-shirt and a can of reducer, applying a little reducer to the rag and then rubbing the paint off each bar with my fingertip. This is the way to get clean results and nice smooth edges. I experimented with 1/8" masking tape on my old bezels before doing these and didn’t like the harsh edges I got with that method. Anyway, here’s a midway progress shot.

Here you can kind of see that I did the outward-facing sections first. I went back after this to do the top and bottom edges.

Fast forward many hours later, add some brand new taillight lenses (which are fantastic) and gaskets, put it all together, and the results are stunning.

I did end up using some masking tape on these license plate end sections, just to make sure I didn’t wipe outside the lines.

It looks like I don’t have a picture of the whole rear of the car with both lights installed, but use your imagination. They both look that good.

What I do have, however, is this random video I did to compare normal incandescent 1157 bulbs with the plug-and-play LED bulbs we currently carry. I decided to stay with the regular bulbs, given the overall “original” theme of the car, and of course because I’m a cheapskate.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9tbb5SjV48E

Finally, I’ll close with some shots of the car as it sat during our Open House this August. I spruced her up as best I could and just kinda loosely put the fenders on to make it look more car-like.

And that about does it. It’s been in hibernation for some time, and I really need to get back to work on it. But now it’s cold and dark. So who knows how much progress I’m going to make over the winter. But anyway… stay tuned!