Yes, the break lights seem to be on all the time when i turn on my lights.
I have not heard any noise from the left/right relays opening.
OK, so I will test those relays as noted to see what i can find.
Then based on that open up the cover as suggested to see what i can find,
I should be able to do that tomorrow to have more data on figuring this out and will report back my findings.
So I am assuming the coils are where the Violet and White wire are attached. I tested the resistance on those with ground to case and found 37.9 and 36.5. Sounds like that is below where they should be and assuming they are not good.
I didn’t proceed to opening the case based on my readings.
The brake lights do seem to be stuck on. So one of the relays must be stuck from not getting enough power?
The value is temperature dependent. I just went out into the shop and measured 35-36 ohms on a 1968 relay, so your coils are fine. I have a note that a 1967 relay measured 40 ohms.
If there is no clicking noise with power applied, the relays are probably stuck. However, that doesn’t explain why there is brake power on the turn signal output.
More information is needed. Is there 12V power on the brake buss (14ga green/white wire)?
Are you asking if there is power on that wire where it meets the back of the K8/K9?
If so, there is not power with just the light switch pulled out to on & the brake lights are on.
When I turn the key and then check, there is 12V on the green/white at the back of the K8/K9 relay. I heard a noise when my probe touched it. Brake lights still on. Should that not have power?
I made a mistake yesterday when checking the Green/White wire.
I spent some time today checking out my brake light switch first.
The Green/Red wire had power, and the Green/White wire showed power when the pedal was pushed. Also, the break lights DO work with the pedal pushed! I was mistaken about them being on since they were so bright from the new LED bulbs I has put in.
Then I went back and checked the Green/White wire (larger gauge) and it had power when the pedal was pushed.
The smaller gauge Green/White wire for the Left Turn signal did not show power with or with out the turn signal switch activated. Not sure if this is supposed to or not. I think your question was about the brake though.
So, we can focus on just turn signals and emergency signals not working. I am guessing that is back to the relay K8 or K9 being stuck?
The inability to distinguish the brightness difference between stop/turn signals (high intensity) and running lights (low intensity) is a common problem with cheap LED bulbs. Using WCCC1157 LED bulbs avoids this problem.
Verify that your K7/K8 relay mechanically works by applying +12V to the violet (right side bank) and then white (left side bank) wires. Use the metal case for the negative lead.
I did purchase the WCCC 1157 Plasma LED’s and they are great.
I am a one man show so not having someone to help with the break pedal and view at the same time was my bad. Just happy they work!
Still stumped on the taillights. I did apply 12V to both relays and was able to clearly hear them “clunk” open. Both seemed to work.
Could they not be getting enough power through the harness to open?
Other things to check?
Check for flashing 12V power on the yellow, yellow/black, and yellow/red wires on the K7/K8 relay. These signals (from the sequential flasher motor) are the turn signal inputs to the relay. If these signals are present and the relay solenoid(s) are operating, then the relay contacts may be oxidized.
OK, thanks for pointing me to the next step. I did see flashing power one of the three wires you mentioned above when I was testing yesterday, I will check for the rest tomorrow,
I was also going to mention that I received a set of the motor/sequencer and the K7/K8 relay with all the wires from some one on this site that wanted to get rid of extra parts he had.
Shout out to member “kljacobs” for the free parts. I plan to take both apart to study them to better learn about how they operate and look like on the insides and post pics for future do it your selfers to learn
I checked for flashing power on the above 3 wires coming from the Sequencer. The Yellow/Red Stripe had flashing power, both the Yellow/Black strip & Yellow did not show any power!
Since I received the other used parts I mentioned, I tested both the motor/sequencer & the K8/K9 relay and both worked so I connected them up to my harness and ran the same test for flashing. Tested for flashing on the sequencer on all 3 wires and they worked. When I tested the K8/K9 relay box I got the same results with only the Yellow/Red stripe wire showing flashing power.
So, same results with two different sets of sequencer & relays.
Just checking with you if there are any other options to get my turn signals and emergency flashers working? You have been so very helpful through this journey and I am trying to not give up but if you think that the solid state box would fix all this I would like to know.
I feel like I might be missing something obvious and just don’t know what it is. We started with all the dash lights and got those working (except signal indicators not flashing, just solid)
Got the new solid state turn signal indicator installed.
Turn signal switch seems to be doing its job with that pesky green/white wire figured out. Could there be anything in that older Thunderbird switch I am missing? Should I just replace that too with a new one while I am knee deep in this? To eliminate any unforeseen issues?
You are our Guru Expert on these issues so I highly value your opinion. I was just trying to see if I could keep it stock/original but it is not cooperating too well.
One more question is how if the three wires in the sequencer are showing flashing power on the output side but that power is only getting to the relays in 1 of the 3. why? Is there a short possibly on the other two?
And since 1 is getting there, why is that one lamp at least flashing?
If only one of the flashing signals (yellow/red) is getting to the K8/K9 relay,
the system is operating in emergency flasher mode where the outer and inner light is blocked by the emergency flasher relay (K10). Either the relay is bad (typically a broken internal ground wire) or has no power on the light blue wire. Test it by removing it and replacing it with two jumpers made from 3" of 18ga wire and 1/4" quick disconnect male crimp connectors.
Connect yellow to yellow and yellow/black to yellow/black. Then test the input wires at the K8/K9 combo relay.
If the flashing yellow, yellow/red, and yellow/black signals do not appear at the relay outputs (the rear lights), then either the riveted wire connections or the internal relay contacts may be oxidized.
I got my jumpers made and went to go test and my battery was dead. I had to put the charger on it tonight to hopefully have it ready to go tomorrow to test.
OK, I got my battery recharged and checked the voltage at 13.7.
Tested the Emergency Relay bi pass based on your above advice to create the jumpers. I was able to determine flashing lights at each of the respective 3 inputs to the K8/K9 as well as the main power on the Violet & White. So I am assuming that something is wrong then with the Emergency Relay?
I do have another one I got with my second Motor/Sequencer & K8/K9 set and am going to put that on to retest with it plugged in to see if I get different results.
As long as there is 12V on the light blue wire, the K10 relay coil has failed (burned out winding or broken ground to case) or the relay contacts are oxidized. Typical OEM K10 coil winding measures around 65 ohms. When energized, the relay contact (yellow-yellow or yellow/black-yellow/black) resistance should be less than .1 ohms.
BTW: Do not grab onto the case with one hand and directly touch the ground lead to the case (with your other hand) while testing a good relay. The inductive kick-back that occurs when the relay is disconnected generates a shockingly high voltage. 
I connected my second Emergency Relay up (without jumpers) and was able to get flashing on each wire connected to the K8/K9 relay but no flashing taillights or indicator on dash.
So I guess I need to check the continuity as I think that is what you are saying.
No, I think you verified that the old K10 was bad and the other good.
Flashing power on the yellow, yellow/red, and yellow/black inputs of the K8/K9 relay but nothing out indicates a problem with the K8/K9 riveted connections or internal contacts.
Ok, thanks for confirming that. I did discover something new.
When I touch my probe to the yellow/black on the K10, as it flashes I hear my signal indicator flash. I left the probe in place with contact and went up front and both indicators were flashing! But no lights.
What would that indicate? and if my K8/K9 (both) aren’t working is that the end of the line? I can’t open it as we discussed earlier to inspect/fix either of them?
If your “probe” puts a load on the yellow/black wire, that may indicate a bad ground. If your “probe” inserts a current, it is probably back-feeding up through the indicator relay and dash lights.
As described earlier, you can open up the K8/K9 combo relay for inspection and to clean the contacts.