EFI, Borgeson steering, headers, exhaust

I’m going to make some improvements for my 1970 Cougar XR-7 convertible 351C-4V. The engine, FMX transmission and suspension have been rebuilt. I’m looking to make it smoother and more drivable. Here’s the parts from the estimate:

:black_small_square:Holley Sniper 2 EFI 650 HP Base Fuel Injection Systems 550-511-3XX
:black_small_square:Holley Sniper EFI HyperSpark Distributors 565-303
:black_small_square: Holley Sniper EFI HyperSpark 2 CD Ignition Boxes 556-154
:black_small_square: Holley Sniper EFI HyperSpark Ignition Coils 556-152
:black_small_square: Holley Sniper OE Style 255 LPH EFI Fuel Pump Modules for
1967-1970 COUGAR, -12-305
:black_small_square: Doug’s Headers D670S4
:black_small_square: MagnaFlow Street Series Performance Exhaust Systems 15816
:black_small_square: MagnaFlow Universal Spun Catalytic Converters 53956
:black_small_square: Borgeson Power Steering Conversion Kits for 1968-1970
COUGAR, MUSTANG - 999024

It’s set to go to the shop December 20th, so if anybody has any better ideas, there’s time to make changes. I was considering a 4r70w transmission swap, and conversion from 3.0 to 3.5 gears, but that was too expensive.

Every one of those modifications will require stuff that plays together and works together. If it doesn’t say it is likely it won’t.

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That’s a partial list of the key parts from a detailed estimate.

I left off parts such as

:black_small_square: Russell Performance Full Flow Hose Ends 610025

The shop specializes in classic cars, and is very experienced in these mods.

For example they’re confident the headers will fit even with the Borgeson.

I think I would do the o/d, rear gears and steering first….maybe a rack and pinion . Get this stuff dialed in before the engine mods are done. Better the enemy you know than the one you don’t know!!

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Why are you considering the catalytic converters on a ‘70 ?

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I agree. new gears with geared posi is about $1200 last time I purchased from QP. Then transmission, then exhaust ( why a cat in the exhaust by the way?) and steering.

Also, the EFI will NOT work correctly if your intake manifold has exhaust crossovers in use. fuel lines are costly too.

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You will love the drivability improvements you will gain with those upgrades! If it’s not on your estimate you may want to consider upgrading the alternator, battery cables etc. sniper systems need good clean power.

The catalytic converters are because the emphasis on the mods is drivability. I want as pleasant an experience as possible for my lovely passenger, so she will prefer to take the Cougar on more trips. For that reason I’m looking to make the exhaust as quiet as possible. The Magnaflow exhaust sound is rated as Moderate exterior and Mild interior. I’d like it even quieter.
MagnaFlow 1967-1970 Ford Mustang Street Series Crossmember-Back Performance Exhaust System

The catalytic converter is a universal version MagnaFlow sells.

The idea is it will dampen sound, also the exhaust will be less smelly. Here’s how it’s described in the estimate.

I would run a magnaflow stainless kit. We can do custom, but would be a bit more in materials and labor. We typically will weld the system instead of clamps, and add in some V bands to allow the exhaust to be removed for service of trans / etc.

If these mufflers are too loud, we have other options - but adding the high flow cats just after the collector will make a significant difference in sound level.

Our garage is adjacent to an in-law suite, and we don’t want the car exhaust to set off smoke and carbon monoxide alarms, or be experienced at all by the suite denizens. Likewise whenever we take the car, we don’t want nearby admirers to be subjected to exhaust fumes. That’s one reason for the EFI, for cleaner, less visible and odiferous exhaust. So, the catalytic converters are to make the Cougar more civilized.

Tubular headers are going to make it noiser in the cabin. We ran magnaflows on a 390 but put a ton of insulation in the floor, above the headliner ,a metalic rear seat bulkhead insulated package tray , insulated trunk ect

The cats will make more heat also…had to cover the rear exh pipes with thermotec blankets and insulate the sides of the tank

Id start off with out the cats amd maybee add a resonator for noise/harmonics issues

I don’t see any reason to install catalytic converters on a car not equipped from the factory with them.

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What I’m looking to do with these mods is have the characteristics of a grand touring car, which is the natural extension of an XR-7 351C-4v convertible. Coddling of the passenger is inherent to a GT.

A “grand touring” (GT) car is basically a car built to do this:

:right_arrow: Go very fast, very far, in lots of comfort, without beating up the driver or passenger.

Different eras interpret it differently, but most GTs share a core set of traits:

1. Long-distance comfort and speed

  • High cruising speed: Strong engine with lots of mid-range torque, so it can sit at high speeds effortlessly.

  • Refined ride: Softer and more compliant than a pure sports car; it soaks up bad pavement instead of punishing you.

  • Quiet and insulated: Good sound deadening, low wind and road noise, comfortable seats you can live in for hours.

I’m not really knowledgeable of the differences in sound between headers and iron manifolds.

:black_small_square: Do headers make the exhaust louder, or change its character?

:black_small_square: Do headers transmit more sound through the metal into the interior?

:black_small_square: If so, does ceramic coating make a difference?

:black_small_square: Would a shorty header mitigate header noise? I’m looking at Doug’s Headers, but Sanderson makes a shorty. Which to choose?

You have basically described the stock version of your car. It was designed to do exactly what you describe. The only real reliability issue would be replacing the points with a Pertronix Ignitor. If you are thinking of cruising at 80 then the overdrive transmission is the next add to the list and if you have a 3.0 rear ratio I would suggest driving it before deciding to change that.

I have Magnaflow on two of my cars and they do not drone at speed. They are a bit louder than turbo mufflers. I put them behind a 427 and a 390.

I don’t know your car but it is often a matter of worn out original parts that diminishes the driving experience far more than a correctable engineering issue. A new set of sway bar bushings alone can be an eye opener.

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I just had the engine, transmission and suspension rebuilt. The steering was loose, and I found out that was because the steering box hadn’t been rebuilt, so I had that done. This all discussed on this thread:

The steering is now much improved, and now it’s back to what I recall in my 1968 Cougar XR-7 GT I had in high school. No road feel, too much play, and too little effort. On the freeway it’s constant adjustment to keep it in the center. That’s why I want the Borgeson, I think it’ll really enhance GT-style drivability.

With the Holley Sniper the ignition is going to be all Holley, which is a shame because it has a new MSD Electronic Distributor ( #83501) that cost $825.95.

The shop says I can look at other options if the Magnaflows (with the cats) are too loud. I searched “turbo mufflers” and found three different companies with “turbo”. What is a go-to muffler for those wanting it quiet as possible?

Per the Marti report—

:black_small_square: 3.00 Traction-Lok Rear Axle

:black_small_square: FMX Select Shift Automatic Transmission

:black_small_square: Competition suspension

The 3.0 rear axle is consistent with the GT theme, so I wouldn’t go to 3.5 unless I had a 4 speed automatic, which would be a 4r70w, the estimate for which was $9,000, not counting the driveshaft and rear gears. I figured that could wait.

I like your plan for a true GT car. My plans are similar with my ‘69 convertible with 351C engine.

My thoughts here based on my direct experience:
Fuel injection on its own will make a huge difference in reduction in raw fuel smell/emissions
Sanderson shorty headers are not louder than the OEM cast iron manifolds
Borgeson steering box is larger than the OEM Ford box and Sanderson advised it may not clear the headers. Getting rid of the complex, leak-prone OEM PS system is always a good choice in my book. I use R&P steering (a favorite mod of mine) so clearance is not an issue for me.

General comments
I agree with Royce on not using the catalytic converters as I don’t think you’ll need them and the car wasn’t designed for them so heat resistance on the floor pan would need to be considered.
I can’t speak to the gear ratio/final drive changes as I don’t know the ratios in your auto box nor your tire OD. I can say I love the 3.70:1 final drive with my 5 speed manual trans.
Brakes, suspension, wheels and tires, and interior mods (better seats) all contribute mightily to my enjoyment of my car. The flat OEM vinyl seats were uncomfortable, slippery, hot in summer sun and too short/missing bolsters to offer meaningful support. Sticky tires and full suspension upgrades showed me how awful they were.

You have a vision of your car as it fits in your life. That’s awesome. Do the mods, enjoy the car as you want to, and drive it.

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I too like your vision for what you want the car to be. The sniper (Sniper 2 I would hope) will be a great part in cutting down the fumes.

I have Tri Y headers and have not noticed it being any louder than manifolds.

I did do a T5 swap and to me, the overdrive is by far the best thing I have done to the car. It’s a totally different cruiser and it let me go to 3.55 rear gears over the 3.0 and still cruise at a much lower RPM. You would get similar results from the 4R70W I would assume.

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You are surrounded by horribly expensive and seemingly incompetent shops. That is a bad combination. You never mentioned getting an alignment done. When everything is good these cars don’t do what you described. It should track straight and not have that much play in the steering. Don do a video showing how you progressively work down from the steering wheel to the front suspension to trouble shoot the system. I would do that exact procedure to see what maybe did not get done. I am also suspecting the bearings in the steering column. Do not throw parts at it. Diagnose the problem systematically. The Borgeson box and the Ford box are not significantly different except for the faster ratio of the Borgeson box. (16:1 vs 14:1)

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As I’ve related before, my Cougar was stuck at an incompetent shop for four enraging :face_with_steam_from_nose: years.

The shop I’m taking it to for the mods is highly competent, but not cheap. The shop rate is $190 per hour. It’s the CA Bay Area, and nothing’s cheap.

The incompetent shop aligned the car twice. It still tracks very slightly to the right. There’s a bit too much play, I’m down to replace the bearings, but I still think the Borgeson will be an improvement. Also, fewer leaks, etc. This the bearing my fixed column needs?

https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/15544/13605/bearing-steering-column-upper-fixed-or-tilt-repro-1967-1968-1969-1970-1971-1972-1973-mercury-cougar-ford-mustang.html

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The Holley fuel injection is not reliable. A member of our club had this installed and his car often sees a flatbed when it won’t start. Catalytic converters don’t make a car quieter - mufflers do.

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I asked ChatGPT about Holley Sniper 2 reliability, and this is the answer it gave me.

Overall the Sniper 2 should be more reliable than an Edelbrock carb, but can have failure modes that’d be prone to leave you stranded needing a tow.

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