This all started when @EliminatorClone posted pics of his Windsor. Note the tie bars are faced inward, towards the engine valley.
I replied with a pic of my Cleveland, with the tie bars faced outward, toward the cylinder block.
Luckily in a Cleveland, there’s nothing to impede on the movements of an outward facing tie bar.
They were never corrected before the engine was dropped in.
Thank you for the explanation.
I asked today for an update, and it may be ready next week.
I asked about the floor reinforcement plate. It wouldn’t fit under the exhaust, so it’s going to be modified by fabricating extension pieces.
I guess the exhaust won’t be the lowest hanging piece and will be protected by the plate.
But will the plate be the lowest part? Having an extension between the plate and the frame won’t make chassis any stiffer. With pics of the underside, I’ll have some explaining to do.
That’s what Pypes does with their exhaust kit, I have one for my 69 Convt.
That’s what Pypes does with their exhaust kit, I have one for my 69 Convt.
Checks out.
The MagnaFlow 15816 instructs:
- Requires Modification For Convertibles
But doesn’t appear to provide a solution.
Redesigning the car’s structure to fit an exhaust system seems backwards to me. But I can see where it would require a custom fabricated exhaust to get the pipes tucked up under that plate like the factory did it.
My 2.25” dual exhaust fits under the reinforcement plate even with a 3” driveshaft without spacers.
I’ll also agree with Bill’s earlier comment that when the exhaust does contact the reinforcement plate it makes a horrendous sound.
It seems like a shop that thinks they’re the world’s foremost expert on custom work for classic cars should be able to make the exhaust fit properly.
I think the reason for this was covered in the original quote (see above).
I would run a magnaflow stainless kit. We can do custom, but would be a bit more in materials and labor. We typically will weld the system instead of clamps, and add in some V bands to allow the exhaust to be removed for service of trans / etc.
The Pypes kit for Mustang/Cougar also requires spacer for its kit, which shows it’s a necessity for use of a kit. I could avoid the spacer if I had a full custom, but that’d be “more in terms of materials and labor”.
It’s going to be another week before my Cougar is ready, next week will be mainly for the Custom AutoSound system and painting the styled steel wheels. I took a trip to the shop to visit. What’s in now is the Borgeson steering, the Sanderson Shorty headers, the cats, the new exhaust and the Holley Sniper 2 EFI. Here’s a video, of the engine running and the exhaust. The shop owner is talking shop to a visiting vendor (and you can hear them over the din of the engine). I’m very happy with how easily the engine started (he just leaned over from outside and turned the key), how smoothly it idled, the reduced engine noise, and the relatively quiet exhaust, but with a retained burble. The shop installs around three Holley Snipers per month. He says the cats further help quiet the exhaust, which he attributes to their being so close to the manifold. There was also no smell back there, I believe the car will be more drivable and presentable. I’m happy so far.
I think a set of heat shields mounted to the floorboard above the cats and continuing down the transmission side might be a good idea. Cats do produce a lot of heat. Shielding the floor will help keep your feet and lag more comfortable and help keep transmission temps lower. This is just a thought.
Keep an eye out for fuel tank temp….our 67 gt had the exhaust routed right next to the tank like yours. Noticed vapor lock symptoms and an occasional gurgling coming from the tank. Heat gun said tank was 150 deg….not good. Put thermotec self adhesive heat shield on the tank sides and their blanket type shields along side the tank about 30in long .Solved the issue
The fuel injection high pressure fuel pump should mitigate that temperature. More of an issue on carbureted cars.
It appears to be working out for you. The Sniper seems to be a good choice, although i wish their control mechanism could be installed inside the car vs on the car to get it away from the heat.
I’ll be curious if the cats cut down on the drone of exhaust at 45 mph. That’s what bothers me about my mostly original exhaust.
I should get it back next week, and I can check. The exhaust was rusty and leaky before, and it’s a wind-tossed convertible, so it’s not the best drone test platform.
That’s a good point. Convertible cars have a completely different sound than a hardtop. One thing I will give your shop credit for is the speed they are demonstrating on the build. Impressive.
Here’s a clip today from the Gearhead Garage YouTube channel, that’s all about modifying classic cars. Looks like another shop suggests catalytic converters on older cars to cut down on smell, and lower the sound a bit.
As a kid in the mid 70’s, I remember the outrage over the stinky sulfur smell of exhaust routed through catalytic converters. So it’s still hard for me to grasp how cats make the exhaust smell better. Of course CD’s sound a whole lot better than vinyl, yet here we are buying vinyl again. I guess perceptions are subject to change over time.
Clean fuels legislation already took sulfur down to ppm levels. What you’re smelling is unburned hydrocarbons, and the cat should substantially oxidize these, plus carbon monoxide. In theory NOx reduction also takes place, but you need a lean mix and the right catalyst for this.
